RCA R52WH74 IT SHUTTS OFF

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abcj
abcj's picture
where is the def. board

where is the def. board located on the rca r52wh74 and where should i start removing the TV CASING (COVER)

Moose54
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Do you have a picture of

Do you have a picture of where you apply the super glue?

Moose54
Moose54's picture
slinteriors said: Just coat

slinteriors said: Just coat the coils with superglue and let dry if the squeal goes away and the set powers up your good to go. If not then chances are its not either of the coils causing it. But the coils will make it squeal, where as a short sharp chirp like a bird is usually related to the HOT and or Flyback.

Do you have a picture of where you apply the super glue?  Or could you draw a diagram?

 

Gina68
Gina68's picture
(to slinteriors)

(to slinteriors)

FYI-you hit the nail on the head. Even though we had replaced the HOT, it blew again since the FLYBACK was also bad.

Unfortunately, I didnt feel qualified/skilled enough to solder the new one in. I did however have a tech in who did the job fairly cheaply--so the help here certainly made my bill cheaper than it would have normally been.

Thanks so much for all the help in diagnosing this! It isnt easy troubleshooting from a distance, but you did a great job. Thank you-Gina

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
Moose54. The super glue is

Moose54. The super glue is just dribbled onto the top of LL029 its a coil that has the copper wire with the solid ferrite core. allow the glue to dry thoroughly.

peneus10
peneus10's picture
i have a r52wh74 chassis#

i have a r52wh74 chassis# itc222a when i turn it on it will go off and on about 3 to 4 times the shut off for good unless i unplug and plug back in can someone tell me if this is something that can be fixed or worth fixing with 4 kids money is kinda tight lol

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
It sounds as if the flyback

It sounds as if the flyback pins only need to be resoldered. Thats a very common problem. The flyback is the large black transformer on the far left ( looking in the rear of the set) It has the thick red wire coming out of its top. Just check the pins on the back side of the circuit board for that transformer you will no doubt see a crack in the solder. Just add a drop more solder to the pins arranged in the circle for the flyback and that should solve the issue in most cases.

cadorette
cadorette's picture
Tv all of a sudden went into

Tv all of a sudden went into a 3d mode type of screen. With 3 lines across the top red blue and green. Went online and did some research and was told it I needed the Convergence Missing Kit. Which included some fuses and service manual w/ additional info. Had someone come out and fix it as well as follow the instructions. When they were done the tv still has the 3d effect. Went to figure out how to get to the service menu and tried the Menu, Power and Vol + a bunch of times no service menu. Now tv is acting up to where it keeps turning off on me. I cant even get my cable to come back on the screen!! Please HELP!! Is there another part I need to order?? How do I adjust my settings??

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
The R52WH74 doesnt have the

The R52WH74 doesnt have the conventional Convergence IC ( Chips ) usually any problem with that models convergence is either the FL231 and CL230 if the option has disappeared from the setup menu. If the option hasnt disappeared then it can be most likley caused by failed resistors on the convergence power supply board, or one of the transistors on the Convergence amp board. The transistors are what control each individual color so if more than one color is out check the resistors on the conv Power supply

evil
evil's picture
lol I dropped the ball on

lol I dropped the ball on that one,I'm actually in the process of replacing CP150 , CP114 and CP120 on an ITC 222....

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
Yes the RCA is weird not

Yes the RCA is weird not having the normal STK ICs like all the others but the ATC221, ITC222 @ ITC222A chassis series are different and without a chipper check interface they can be rough to diagnose and service. We repair them all the time as they are actually easy if you have the correct equipment for that paticular chassis.

evil
evil's picture
Ok I just replaced swollen

Ok I just replaced swollen CP114,CP120 and per suggestions CP150 that wasnt swollen. Also resoldered LOPT pins even though they looked fine I put new solder on them anyway.Still no power,it tries to turn on,makes a high picthed whine,but doesn't 3 times then nothing. Checked DiodePower211 it jumps from .1 to around 3.6 DC. Then I checked collector on TransistorPower 210 that stays at or around 1.6 DC from the time I plug it in, would that be considered high protect?

evil
evil's picture
Went ahead with safety

Went ahead with safety shutdown troubleshooting as far as I could, disconnected ba010 to disable safety_AP still no change, disconnected BV500 small signal board and jumped pin 1 and 16. It still didnt start but I didnt get the 3 strikes-it seemed like it tried to start differently- but with the same high pitched whine,then nothing. I cant decipher anything past that in the troubleshooting guide{EW START}. Any advice or direction would be great?

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
Does the high pitched whine

Does the high pitched whine coincide with the power light blinking 3 times if the safety is enabled? if so have you checked DL030 to see if its shorted? also TL010 Horizontal output transistor. If DL030 is shorted then I would suspect CL031 and possibly a cracked CRT neck or bad yoke.

evil
evil's picture
Yes, I just checked Diode

Yes, I just checked Diode Horizontal030 in circuit?it gave me a reading of 1461 one way then it read 592 the other so I suppose its good.I think the HOT is bad,so I guess the 1.6VDC on the collector for TP210 did mean High Protect. Here is my findings for the HOT +B TO -E = 623 , +E TO -B = ZIP , +B TO -C = 561 , -B TO +C = ZIP , +C TO -E = ZIP , -C TO +E = ZIP sorry it took me so long I was walking the dogs

evil
evil's picture
I just pulled up the data

I just pulled up the data sheet on that HOT,it doesnt have a built in damper diode like I thought it did,on second thought maybe it is good if its a typical npn. Now what? LOPT?

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
OK have you tried to force

OK have you tried to force start the run supply by unsoldering the colector of HOT then monitor the run supply test points after pressing power? If not I am pasting the proceedure for you below. Sorry cant attach the file. If you send me a email I can email you the field service guide if you need it. slinteriors@yahoo.com

evil
evil's picture
http://www.techlore.com

http://www.techlore.com/download/31075/RCA-ITC222-Service-Field-Guide/ this one? I didnt see where you unsolder the collector of the hot what page is it on?

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
Yes that should be the same

Yes that should be the same one its on page 79 of that manual.

evil
evil's picture
I just got done soldering the

I just got done soldering the HOT back in, im fixing to try pulling the anode from the splitter and measure some more diodes on the Power Scan Board. I cant test any STBY volts,as soon as I plug it in it tries to come on. I have a feeling its the flyback,not shure what I can do to it to figure out if it is or not other than just replace it...

evil
evil's picture
Ok I think im done with it

Ok I think im done with it for a while to much of a headache, I checked some diodes on the Power Scan Board one in paticular caught my attention the one that drives the collector of the HOT,DL012, it seems to be shorted but I was checking it in circuit. I checked some that looked just like it and near it and they were reading anywhere between 5 and 7 hundred while DL012 was reading full resistance. Its even in the manual on page 102 as a possible cause of shutdown. I cant find specifications for what it is supposed to be since RCA{*&^ %%$ $&** ^%^%} doesnt have a parts list. I would think though if the Diode shorted the collector on the HOT it would have shot the HOT.Maybe I should pull up the datasheet on the hot agin.

Moose54
Moose54's picture
I tried the super glue trick

I tried the super glue trick and it worked, Thank you so much. John Jensen

evil
evil's picture
Well I pulled DL012 out of

Well I pulled DL012 out of circuit and tested it and it checked out. Im not shure about force starting the run supply, if it is the flyback I may do more damage than good by doing that.

evil
evil's picture
I force started the run

I force started the run supply and smoked my green crt drive board....guess maybe I had a shorted green tube? Ohh well off to the dump. P.S. I have a good factory remote for cheap if anybody needs one.

chris46303
chris46303's picture
it's fucking bullshit trying

it's fucking bullshit trying to save this page to fix my tv but ever 1 pics are in the way fuck you N.W.O

mgrbrandon
mgrbrandon's picture
i have a r52wh74. when i

i have a r52wh74. when i turn it on, the green light comes on and makes a whining noise for a sec and does this three times and light goes off until i unplug it and then does the same thing. i checked the solder joints @ the flyback and they look fine. could i also have a bad power supply? thanks, brandon

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
usually if that sound

usually if that sound coincides with the power light lighting each time its almost always the deflection board which will require replacement. Your model uses the ITC222A deflection board PSB260 .You can get a remanufactured deflection board from www.tvrepairworld.com which comes with full warranty and Installation instructions to replace the board.

Barry L
Barry L's picture
My problems started with the

My problems started with the convergence issue (that 3 color separation mentioned above in one of the emails)which was solved by replacing the Convergence fuse. The replacement worked for a short while, but then the picture went back to the color separation problem again. We replaced the fuse again using newer fuses (the first one we used we had had for a while) hoping that the newer fuses would work better and also checked to be sure the soldering job was done better. The work was completed and the picture was normal for a while, but then after about 15 minutes, the power shut off. The TV does power back up after an interim of not being on, but the picture is back to being the original 3 color separation problem and the TV again now shuts down the power after 15 minutes or so. I still have replacement fuses for the convergence issue, but now I am looking for solutions to the shut off problem.

slinteriors
slinteriors's picture
The deflection board is

The deflection board is famous for having issues that would also explain the Convergence fuse continual blowing. Chances are the deflection board will need replacement as there are many components on the deflection board that are known to fail so replacing is usually the best bet

Barry L
Barry L's picture
slinteriors said: The

slinteriors said: The deflection board is famous for having issues that would also explain the Convergence fuse continual blowing. Chances are the deflection board will need replacement as there are many components on the deflection board that are known to fail so replacing is usually the best bet

What would I look for to recognize the deflection board?  I am presuming that the convergence fuse that I replaced is part of that board.  Once recognized, is it a fairly simple board to replace.  Any suggestions to obtain the replacement board as to part number and a source of supply?

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