A little explanation first-  this model (as do most Samsung DLP sets) will try 3 times to get the lamp lit before the microprocessor will give up and then the 3 lites on the front will blink indicating a LAMP failure.  This process takes about 1 to 2 minutes.  In order of probabilty, the failures are:

1) A faulty lamp and/or ballast.  REPLACE LAMP AND/OR BALLAST

However, a faulty lamp and/or ballast are not the only things that will give this blink code- 

2) If the color wheel has a bad bearing and turns too slow or not at all, the microprocessor WILL NOT let the lamp light, and then give a LAMP blink code.  A bad color wheel will normally have some sort of abnormal sound- a low growl or high pitched whine is common.   REPLACE COLOR WHEEL

3) ALSO, if the microprocessor (on the DMD board) in its color wheel rotation detection or processing fails, once again the lamp is prevented from coming on and you get a LAMP blink code. REPLACE DMD BOARD

IF THE SET EVER COMES ON WITH A PICTURE for even a fraction of a second or though it takes many tries, the lamp and ballast are good.  The problem must be either the color wheel or DMD board.

Sean O - would you mind providing any details on where you located the repair manual? My set is doing exactly the same thing, hoping to be able to fix it with a new color wheel - any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

CharlieBrown said: A little explanation first-  this model (as do most Samsung DLP sets) will try 3 times to get the lamp lit before the microprocessor will give up and then the 3 lites on the front will blink indicating a LAMP failure.  This process takes about 1 to 2 minutes.  In order of probabilty, the failures are: 1) A faulty lamp and/or ballast.  REPLACE LAMP AND/OR BALLAST However, a faulty lamp and/or ballast are not the only things that will give this blink code-  2) If the color wheel has a bad bearing and turns too slow or not at all, the microprocessor WILL NOT let the lamp light, and then give a LAMP blink code.  A bad color wheel will normally have some sort of abnormal sound- a low growl or high pitched whine is common.   REPLACE COLOR WHEEL 3) ALSO, if the microprocessor (on the DMD board) in its color wheel rotation detection or processing fails, once again the lamp is prevented from coming on and you get a LAMP blink code. REPLACE DMD BOARD IF THE SET EVER COMES ON WITH A PICTURE for even a fraction of a second or though it takes many tries, the lamp and ballast are good.  The problem must be either the color wheel or DMD board.

Please help my green light and red standby lights blink, no picture, this just started

after I moved TV? Same model

Is the lamp ballast included in the lamp assy that is comonly replaced (black box)?

Larry L.

Danielsau, I have the same exact problem. And once it starts doing it I can not even get the TV to turn off without unplugging it. This just started tonight and I have no idea what is causing it. If you find out what is wrong please post it.

This is a good example of why, after researching this problem, I decided to donated my DLP TV to Goodwill. At some point I had to admit I made a mistake buying this Samsung DLP TV and it is not going to be reliable enough to sink any more $$ into.-- If you read the forums it becomes pretty obvious. If I had it to do all over again (because I did get 4yrs good service) I would have immediately bought a couple of box fans and installed them inside the chassis to exhaust more of the heat caused by that lamp as heat really kills electronic components over time. I put the $700 or so it would have cost to fix my old set and purchased a new Samsung HL-T5687SX LED DLP. It has an eye popping picture and much longer life with the 3 color LED lamps rather than the single bulb + it has no color wheel to worry about and it is true 1080 resolution.

Larry L.

So - I replaced the PCB board (primary power supply) and, no change, the exact same symptoms -

So far, I've replaced -
- Lamp
- Color Wheel
- Ballast
- DMD Board
- PCB Power Supply

An so far, nothing has caused any change on the set...but I guess the good thing is that I haven't made it any worse.

I'd love to hear if anyone has any other thoughts - I might consider trying the Digital Board or Optical Engine, depending on the cost, or just cut my losses and move on...

THANKS!

The Tech Guy just left and he says that the DMD needs to be replaced. According to him, that is part of the Light Engine and is only $100 cheaper than replacing the Light Engine ($1190). So, looks like my TV is going away. Already lookin for my new set.

I am sorry to hear so many people are having the same problem as I am. Our tv worked for about a year to the day when our lamp and ballast went bad. Samsung replaced it then two months later tv shut off with same error, we thought the lamp was bad again and we just had another tech come out to check our HLR5067W and now he is saying it is the color wheel $500.00 to repair. We have to wait 2 weeks for the part, so we will see. I will post once we get the tech back out.

removing double post. sorry!

I have sort of the same situation as above- I have a HLP4663 that never gave me one bit of problem- matter of fact I would guess TV has less than 100 hours on it.

I built a new home, so DLP and other stuff was put in storage..I moved the TV myself so I know nothing was dropped, etc.

Plug it in..standy light is on, but pushing the pwr button on the remote or front panel will not power TV up. No fan comes on, no color wheel movement, no light...nothing. Looking into TV, I checked fuse on pwr baord, and there is a small green light is illuminated.

I am guessing its the pwr board? How can I check it to see if thats the problem?

WitsEnd said: The power board occurred to me as well, but no idea how to test it. A new one is over $200, so I'm not gonna get one just to try it :) I've seen sites selling the *service* manual, but that is way beyond my abilities!

My power board is only 85 bucks, so I'm thinking that would be the price of a service call anyways.

 Looks very easy to install with 4 connectors.