Mitsubishi WD-52525 has a continuious blinking light

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entreri
entreri's picture
stevew407 said: Anyone

stevew407 said: Anyone interested in my NON-WORKING WD-52525 ? I have settled with Mitsubishi and this might be good for parts or for someone that wants to do the repair. I am in Southern California. Thanks to and for the people on this board/list it has been helpful.

If its FREE I'll take it off your hands.  I am also in Socal in Riverside County.  Send me an email.  entreri at sprint dot blackberry dot net

entreri
entreri's picture
No More cutting the Orange

No More cutting the Orange Wire!

This applies to the WD series with V26 Chassis. If your set has the built in DVR this will not work, YET!

It Applies to: WD-52525, WD-62525. It might work on: WD-52725,
and WD-62725. If this works on your WD series, let us know!

So I've done a lot of reading and learned a lot about electronics in the last 3 months. It all started when I got a TV for FREE.

It was a Mitsubishi WS series television with GBLOD issue. Learned all about replacing caps and soldering from the internet. I even bought expensive multimeters to check capacitors and crystals.

Which led me to my first WD series Television. It had the GBLOD so I figured hey its an easy fix. Bought the capacitors that the instructions I got online said to replace and I did. However, this time the light was still blinking.

So I went online and read some more and learned about disconnecting the power supply from the FMT board and sure enough the light went out. The solution was to install a toggle switch. That was not something I wanted to do. I'm a thinker so I decided to go a bit further and learn about schematics.

Obviously the FMT board connects to the DM board. When the FMT board receives power it sends information to the DM board. When the DM board doesn't like what it hears it will not allow the rest of the system to start. By pulling the power to the FMT board the DM board doesn't hear anything negative coming from the FMT board, so the DM board gives the go ahead for the system to start.

Well I narrowed down this communication to the FB connector on the FMT board. If this ribbon style connector is unplugged the set will boot normally. However it must be plugged back in before hitting the power button.

After looking at the schematic, 4 of the 40 pins for this connector jumped out at me. The pins are 30(PERR), 31(SERR), 32(STOP), and 33(MAIN-RST). Now I think of "ERROR" when I see the letters "ERR".

So I assumed this was the FMT boards' way of telling the DM board something was wrong. Which was causing the BGLOD.

So I figured if I could silence the FMT board the DM board would handle its business.

I accomplished this by sliding a very thin strip of paper(inside of the FB connector) wide enough to prevent pins 30 and 31 from making contact with pins 30 and 31 on the ribbon style connector.

It worked!

I can unplug the set and plug it back in. It will still boot normally without the need of the Orange wire trick. No Switches, no cutting holes, and no extra wires.

I would appreciate any feedback or comments on this. Forgive my grammar if there are mistakes.

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
interesting good work!

interesting good work!

now can you hit the power button also?

Kerry B.
Kerry B.'s picture
Very good work. This is one

Very good work. This is one of the last pieces of information needed to keep these sets being useful for a while yet. I have been wanting this information as I have fixed maybe a dozen of these sets now so far with many different DM and FM board problems but hadn't found a way for getting around adding the FC power switch. - Thanks -
- Kerry -

entreri
entreri's picture
Television operates as normal

Television operates as normal.  You can push the power button or use the remote.  

Ryo_Ohki2
Ryo_Ohki2's picture
That is nice work.. Glad

That is nice work.. Glad there still some creative juice going on in this thread. Got rid of mine already, but always interested to see if someone did a fix for it.

mike.y
mike.y's picture
This sounds great. I tried

This sounds great. I tried the orange wire trick. and now I want to try the ribbon cable paper block. but I do not have the schematic, can you tell me how to find the two connections to block (# 30& 31)

and if I could buy you a beer I would for this great find

Mike

entreri
entreri's picture
go here: http://www.techlore

go here: http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/30507/Mitsubishi-Service-Manuals/

Download the service manual for the v26 chassis. It has schematics attached to it.

ChrisD
ChrisD's picture
So I'm not very tech savy,

So I'm not very tech savy, but can anyone tell me which board it is or point me in the right direction like a page # in the manual that has a picture of the board that I need to take out within the tv itself? I didn't want to start removing anything before I knew exactly what I needed to remove. I have the 52525...is there a way to post a picture on this forum? That might make it easier.
Thanks,

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
High all. I have taken the

High all. I have taken the time myself to download the schematic and service manual in PDF format online. Here it is if anyone needs it- http://www.my.electronicshelponline.com/uploads/V26_Service_Manual.pdf-

However, even though I have this info now, can someone help me save some time on working on this machine? I currently have a Mit WD52525 V26 chassis.
I originally tried to replace the bulb, but have had no luck in this fixing the problem.
My order of operation goes like this, with lamp cover off and safety pushed in with a screwdriver.

1. After reset, timer light flashes green for approx. 1 minute; after it goes out all lights are blank.
2. Turn on power button and Timer light comes on solid green, no flashes, and fan comes on after 3 seconds
3. After another 3 seconds, the Lamp itself comes on in sync with the lamp indicator light showing solid yellow. The Lamp itself stays on for approx. 5 seconds then goes out, while the lamp indicator light still stays constant yellow.
4. So right now, I have a constant green Timer light, a constant yellow Lamp Indicator light, and the fan still going, but the Lamp itself will not come back on. After 1 minute, the Lamp Indicator light turns solid red and everything stops. Hence the final trouble code I guess.

I would just like to add that, as I said before, the Lamp itself does come on in the beginning, but does not stay on. Something inside will not let it stay illuminated, thus telling me that there must be an overload somewhere that is not allowing constant voltage. Could anyone please help me with this as I bought this set from a friend and want to try and fix it myself before using it for target practice. Anything would be greatly appreciated and I would be humbled for the slightest inkling of assistance.

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
Sorry everyone. Seems the

Sorry everyone. Seems the link for the service manual I posted before does not work. I'll try again.

http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/pdf/MIT_WD-52525_WD-62525_WD-52725_WD-62725...

In the mean time. Can anyone tell me what I?m doing wrong? After posting the above comment, I took it upon myself to check the control board after reading in previous threads that a red light is a sure sign of popped capacitors.

I replaced 2-3000uf and 1-1000uf caps, both 10 volt, to a higher 16 volt cap on the power board of the same uf size I was also told by a local TV repair shop that the original light coming on and going off should be cured with this cap replacement. However, I now have the infamous green flashing light of death on the timer indicator. Any clue out there fellow techies?

Also, does anyone know where to get the wiring schematic for the MIT WD52525?

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
 

 

Bigdogmonsta said: after reading in previous threads that a red light is a sure sign of popped capacitors.

 

The red light means that you are haing problem with the bulb not necissarily blown caps.  Blown caps are usually the sign of the flashing green light.  You need to go back and make sure you did the older work 100% with no cold solder and no solder bridging connections.

 

Also, does anyone know where to get the wiring schematic for the MIT WD52525?

On My keep and share page. 

http:/aevans0001.keepandshare.com...

 

Here is the direct link not sure if it works or not.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/1870029/v26-service-manual-schematics-pd...

 

I can not seem to create a hyperlink... dunno... but if you copy and paste the above addresses in it should work

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
@big

@big

Your link to the service manual in your first post is actually found here:

 

http://www.my.electronicshelponline.com/uploads/V26_Service_Manual.pdf

 

The seocnd link is for the instruction manual.

 

Reading your comment again, it sounds like you really need to look back at your work that you did.  As far as I understand and in my personal experience of fixing 2 of these is that the power board caps cause the blinking GREEN light not red, RED always has to do something with the BULB.  Green usually has to do with CAPS. 

 

You need to search and find out which board controls the Lamp......  It sound like a communication problem or a fan problem.  There are three fans, 1 on Chasis, 1 on back cover, and 1 in tv(??).....

I would work on the green light first, ge tit back to working to the red light.  Then if you look on all of the boards you will find about 7 caps that are suggested to be changed and those 7 do not include the 2 bigger ones you replaced on your Power board..  Check out my keepand share page and there is alot of good info i collected, trying to fix my tv...

 

http://aevans0001.keepandshare.com/

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
Thanks Aev. I'll go back in

Thanks Aev. I'll go back in and see what entails. I also stand corrected on the manual links. Thanks for putting the right ones up.

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
So let?s see here. I went

So let?s see here. I went back in and checked power board and resecured one cold solder joint. I also used what were the right grounding screws with washers on the top 6 screws of the board so that they covered the solder joints around the screw holes. All fans are hooked up. I?ve now put everything back together and still have blinking green timer light?..But, I checked the resistance on the new bulb I just bought and tried to put in Wednesday and its showing an open circuit across the two prong poles of the light fixture itself. I?m thinking that should not be, but am not sure if the mercury has to heat up in the bulb tube before it closes the connection and fires the bulb. Any clue as to how many Ohms or mOhms the bulb should have in a resting state or do I utilize my warranty and send for a new bulb.

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
If I can find out for sure if

If I can find out for sure if the bulb is good, I believe my next item of intricacy will be the pin 30 and 31 trick that entrari posted.

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
Ok but you have a small

Ok but you have a small problem.

You need to find out why your status changed.  Why did it go from Red to green?

The green light is not a bulb issue.  Was your bulb in when you are getting a green light and the cover for the filter?

You need to resolve the green blinking light before worrying about the bulb.  Do some research and see if anyone has reported problems of green blinking light with a completely blown bulb.  How many times were you able to power up the tv and the bulb come on before you opened it up?

 

What happens when you power up tv now?  Can you try to verify fans operation while the tv turns on?  Make sure all connections are reconnected correctly. How much of the chasis did you go through when you took it apart... Did you start and stop at the power board or did you dig further.

 

____________________________edit _____________________

Ok also did you check the power points for voltage?  If you look around you can find where the test points are on the power board.

 

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
Ok lets see. My status

Ok lets see. My status changed after I went inside and changed the caps on the power board, (which I now know is the FMT board). Before I did that is when I was getting what I explained in one of my first posts, which was

After Reset

1. Timer-green flash 71 sec (I found this out from the TV Repair Shop that I bought the caps from)?.then
2. Bulb Fan ignition ?then?.wait 5 sec?then
3. Lamp Indicator lights solid yellow and bulb ignites for 5 sec?.then
4. Bulb goes out and lamp indicator stays yellow?.then
5. Wait sixty sec?.then?.lamp indicator shows red?.then
6. No other lights now on.
End of cycle until reset.

I wanted to post this again for reference purposes. I know from experience, I am an HVAC Mechanic, that sequence of operation is what you must follow to find the original problem sometimes. A starts?.which leads to B?.which leads to C, and so on. Its kind of like what Enteri explains on page 66 of Sept. 18. The FMT board is the power source, which relies on the DM board to play the safety role. If the DM board sees something is not working, it stops the sequence. As I said, it acts as a multi item detection and safety device.

I must also add that the service manual shows Red in the lamp indicator column as ?lamp did not turn on?. As I said before, I know now why it would not. It was because the popped caps would not allow the bulb to stay illuminated do to there inability to hold a charge and keep the proper resistance, so the lamp would then go off. It is at the end of that cycle that the Lamp indicator would glow red at the end of the sequence.

After I went in and replaced the caps and put it back together is when I started getting the flashing green timer light. Its almost like the next sequence is not occurring because the next item in the sequence, as I explained above as the fan, which is the first item to come on after the original 71 sec reboot, is not coming on line, so to speak.

Like I said, I even went back in again, i.e.-disassembled, checked everything, and re-assembled and still have the green flashing timer light, again. So I am thinking like you are, about whether the bulb fan may be out, being as that is what the next item in the above sequence is supposed to be after the original 71 sec boot.

The green flashing timer/power indicator light shows as ?booting after AC applied? in the Service Manual Diagnostic Table on page 22. So that is what happens as soon as the set is plugged in, or reset. Either way, the power is broken and the system reboots, starting anew.

I guess I am going to find out whether the fan is good or not, i.e.- unhooked, gone to ground, or has open windings via an ohmmeter; Or in other words I?m going back in. I?ll also check the test point before doing anything else like you suggested.

I now have a personal vendetta with this issue, and I assure you, IT WILL BE FIXED!!! Thanks for letting me bounce some ideas off of you. I?ll let you know what entails.

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
you say "I know now why it

you say "I know now why it would not. It was because the popped caps would not allow the bulb to stay illuminated do to there inability to hold a charge and keep the proper resistance, so the lamp would then go off."

How do you know this?

I am still leaning towards bad cap replacement. Of course I am no electrical engineer or anything of the sort, so all is amateur stuff. I understand that you are sayign the Problem A (Bad caps) caused problem B (red light coming on) and now you are seeing problem C. I think Prob A was caused by bad caps on a different board (are you sure the power board is the FMT board?) can you take a picture of your FMT board while you have it open... The general thinking is there is like 7 caps of the 1000 whatevers size, and then the 2 bigger ones on the power board that go out.

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
OK. So lets see. I have been

OK. So lets see. I have been unable to work on this machine again until today; seems that my schedule has been pretty full as of late. So can anyone please tell me what your lamp resistance values are while the bulb is in a resting state out of your TV?
I NEED this info for analysis purposes and all future reference. Simply remove your lamp and measure the resistance for me and see what you get?ANYBODY .

This will be a vital piece of information for all who visit or will visit this sight now or anytime in the future. Someone who has a legit working TV with the TV Lamp 915P020010, or its equivilant, please take the bulb out and measure its resistance across the two poles for me and tell me what you get.

@ Aevan-no offense, but please do not respond this particular post unless you have these values for me. I will discuss any further troubleshooting aspects with you afterwards but not until. Also, the picture of the FMT board I am referring to is the one at the top of this posted page, and has been on the same posted page since this thread was started back in '07 by Larry Dillon. Is that, in fact, the FMT board or the DM board? Thanks.

hash
hash's picture
WD52525 has all video inputs

WD52525 has all video inputs not clear. sort of wavy

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
 

 

Bigdogmonsta said: @ Aevan-no offense, but please do not respond this particular post unless you have these values for me. I will discuss any further troubleshooting aspects with you afterwards but not until. Also, the picture of the FMT board I am referring to is the one at the top of this posted page, and has been on the same posted page since this thread was started back in '07 by Larry Dillon. Is that, in fact, the FMT board or the DM board? Thanks.

 

 

1.  have you also looked at this on my keeepandshare page?

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/1864323/shuts-down-with-red-lamp-led-pdf...

 

2.  This picture is neither the FMT board or DM.  It is the power board

 

These are the following boards with capacitors that need to be fixed

PWB - Power

DM

FMT

 

If you want pictures download Tbullys fix...  Great powerpoint presentation

If you do not have powerpoint there is a file called Tv Board pics that I just added.. Download itr from my keepandshare page.  I just realized at the time of me creating the keepandshare page I also converted all files to pdfs for yall...

 

I setup that page just so that everyone here could download all the research i had done, It was quite a daunting task to find the correct info...

 

 

http://aevans0001.keepandshare.com

 

____________________________edit_____________________

@big

 

After looking at that file I linked to for you, this is where you should start, that is if you can get it back to a flashing red.  How much experience do you have soldering on Capacitors?  I just don't get the corugation between why before you did the fix you had a red flashing light (lamp problem) and now you  have a green flashing light (system problem).... COuld be a coincidence but check out that file...

 

trayfer
trayfer's picture
Hey aevans0001,

Hey aevans0001,

It was very nice of you to reply even though "Bigdogmonsta" sounded like he was dissing you in a "non-offensive" way. The best part is that you responded anyways without the lamp values..: )

I will say that you look a bit tough in your photo but based on the time and effort you spend responding to lost souls shows how big of a heart you have and how nice you really are. People should appreciate free $150+ an hour tech help and stay humble.

Luv it,
Traypher

conchobor99
conchobor99's picture
I am attempting to put a DPST

I am attempting to put a DPST switch in the line between the FMT and DM boards. Where is the DM and FMT located? How do I get to them? IS this very complicated? I am not affrai to try anything. I am handy and know a little about alot. My e mail is conchobor99@aol.com. Thanks.

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
trayfer said: Hey aevans0001,

trayfer said: Hey aevans0001, It was very nice of you to reply even though "Bigdogmonsta" sounded like he was dissing you in a "non-offensive" way. The best part is that you responded anyways without the lamp values..: )

 

Yeah well, I think he will never fix the TV as he does not like to listen to advice.  If he does fix it more power to him....

 

 

 

trayfer said:  I will say that you look a bit tough in your photo but based on the time and effort you spend responding to lost souls shows how big of a heart you have and how nice you really are. People should appreciate free $150+ an hour tech help and stay humble. Luv it, Traypher

 

Yeah that photo was actually when I went to the trash dump with my little cousin, we were unloading fence posts and he threw before I did and it came back and hit me in the eye!  It was funny, first black eye I have had in 20 years...

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
So anyway. Sounds to me like

So anyway. Sounds to me like some people are treating this site like a soap opera with all the so called,"dissing", as you call it. I say whatever makes your day pal. So as I move on, I have found that there is no way to check if the bulb is good when out of the TV. I found this out from my local TV repair shop which seem to be few and far between in my part of the globe.
And yeah, thanks for responding. If your like me, you treat this as a hobby. It is a new one that I seem to have picked up when I got this TV. If I can figure it out I'll also be more than happy to help anyone with the same problem. I'll check out the link you posted. Thanks for posting it. Just thought I'd put forth however, My origianl problem was not a flashing red light, but a solid lit red light. I 'll do some more research and get back with ya. Thanks for stickin around the site.

Bigdogmonsta
Bigdogmonsta's picture
Also, thanks for posting the

Also, thanks for posting the difference between the power board-pwb, DM and FMT boards. The power board is the one that had the popped capacitors that I replaced.

Aevans0001
Aevans0001's picture
 

 

Bigdogmonsta said: So anyway. Sounds to me like some people are treating this site like a soap opera with all the so called,"dissing", as you call it. I say whatever makes your day pal.

 

trayfer has some points...

entreri
entreri's picture
Bigdogmonsta said: Also,

Bigdogmonsta said: Also, thanks for posting the difference between the power board-pwb, DM and FMT boards. The power board is the one that had the popped capacitors that I replaced.

Have you tried disconnecting the FC connector and seeing if the set will reset?

hoover7127
hoover7127's picture
What pieces of junk! I have

What pieces of junk! I have one that I have replaced the bulb 4 or 5 times, sent it off to Mit. they repaired the chasis and now less than a year later I have the green light of death AGAIN!!!!

I have had it!!! I'm not going to spend any more money on this junk only for it to go out in another 6 months. Why should I (anyone) spend $500 on this piece of crap when we can go out and spend about $800 and get a great plasma?

I'm done!!!!!!

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