I have a wd-52725 that I recently changed the lamp in November of last year and afterwards I noticed that it would take longer and longer to turn on. There is no BGLOD but when I change channels it takes up to 3 to 4 seconds to respond. I also can not use the PIP anymore. It comes on and I can select different PIP modes but it will not tune in any channels. I also noticed that the fan stays on all the time. Does anyone know what this could be? Larry..anybody?
Update to all. A while back I posted my problem pertaining to a solid red lamp LED. I had a good response from Flaming and followed the suggested advice by replacing the lamp ballast. Once the new ballast arrived, I plugged it in but got the exact same result. The power supply voltages check out, the ballast input voltage checks out, and the discretes coming into the ballast (+5V, LAMPEN) look good. The bulb was replaced before I tried to fix anything so the bulb doesn't seem to be the problem either. If you see my previous post, the bulb will actually briefly illuminate briefly only if you try to measure the ballast input voltage.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the bulb wouldn't come on? If the input voltage to the ballast is correct, the bulb would/should come on if the discrete signals are correct. Upon measuring them they seem to check out, but can someone verify exactly what I should be measuring on the discretes? Any other suggestions?
ruppy700 said: Hi, I reciently decided to repalce my bulb due to a dim pic. I got the Philips. Placed it in and am now getting a flashing green light as so many have described and then it turns to red.... No Pic no Sound... Put old bulb back in to see if I had a defective bulb... same problem... Any Suggestions. Please e-mail me at [email protected] Thanks
I believe that was the same symptoms I had last year and the 2 3300 caps on the power board were swollen and leaking. That's all I changed and that fixed it. If you go in that deep need to change out other caps recommended by other posts. May find list in other topics in this forum.
I would like to try the switch mod on my WD-52527 but I only have a connector labeled FC1 which has several blue wires and one red. Do I break the red wire or is it a different connector on this model? I have only replaced the caps on the DM board so far.
My connector on the FMT board was not labeled. Looking at the board as it sits in the chassis facing the component side, it should say FMT in the top left corner. Looking down on it, the connector is on the end of the board away from the power board. Should be 2 black wires, a brown wire, and an orange wire. There are 2 sets of wires color coded the same color, make sure you cut into the bron and orange wires going to the connector on the FMT board. Instructions say use DPDT switch but a DPST (double pole single throw) works. I can send you photo of close-up of my board if you need.
Ok...I'm just not getting something. I don't see a connector with two black, one brown and one orange. Am I looking at the wrong board? If you can send a pic that would be outstanding.
I too have WD-52725 with the flashing green light problem and need some help. Could this be caused in any way by a power outage? We had an ice storm a few nights ago that took out the power. I have it plugged into a battery backup like the ones used for computers so that it doesn't turn off everytime there is a little flicker in the lights, when the power went out the TV stayed on until I turned it off. I also turned off the battery backup, when the power came back on I plugged everything in and I just get the flashing green light. Is it worth my time to persue the connected equipment warranty on the battery backup or the surge protector or should i just try to fix it myself? I am pretty mechanically inclined and I have some experience with a soldering iron. Please send me the diagrams on how to perform this repair. I also noticed in reading some of the earlier posts that there is some discussion of installing a switch. What is the purpose of this? I might go ahead and do it while I have it apart.
kbirdjr said: I too have WD-52725 with the flashing green light problem and need some help. Could this be caused in any way by a power outage? We had an ice storm a few nights ago that took out the power. I have it plugged into a battery backup like the ones used for computers so that it doesn't turn off everytime there is a little flicker in the lights, when the power went out the TV stayed on until I turned it off. I also turned off the battery backup, when the power came back on I plugged everything in and I just get the flashing green light. Is it worth my time to persue the connected equipment warranty on the battery backup or the surge protector or should i just try to fix it myself? I am pretty mechanically inclined and I have some experience with a soldering iron. Please send me the diagrams on how to perform this repair. I also noticed in reading some of the earlier posts that there is some discussion of installing a switch. What is the purpose of this? I might go ahead and do it while I have it apart.
I have a wd-52525 and also was plugged into a battery backup / surge protection system. There have been a lot of posts where power failure or simply unplugging the TV resulted in the green blinking light when power is restored to the set. Good luck if filing a claim with UPS system.
As far as the switch, I have seen posts that tell about problem with boards booting up. I installed the switch and was able to get the green light to stop blinking. Since having to use it initially, we have lost power 2X and it did not require having to use the switch. Unless you like to take stuff back apart, I would install the switch while you have the TV chassis open.
I just realized that I forgot to include my email address. It is [email protected]. Could you please send me the repair instructions for the WD-52725 as well as the instructions for what ever switch is being installed along with a description of what does. I have seen references to the switch but I haven't yet found a post telling what it fixes.
kbirdjr said: I just realized that I forgot to include my email address. It is [email protected]. Could you please send me the repair instructions for the WD-52725 as well as the instructions for what ever switch is being installed along with a description of what does. I have seen references to the switch but I haven't yet found a post telling what it fixes. Thanks in advance.
previous page (55) 6th post from bottom gives good explanation for switch
Hello, my TV has come down with the infamous blinking green timer light of death. I own a Mitsubishi wd-52525 52 inch TV. Can anyone send me the repair information . to fix this? My email is [email protected]. I really appreciate your help and any info you can give.
Hello, I too have the Mits wd-52525 52 inch TV with the BGLD. I replaced several capacitors and now it works but only sometimes. I seem to be able to get it working if it is unplugged for a while then if I wait for the BGL to stop. But it's not working consistently. Can someone please send me the information on the switch repair? Is there another fix that is recommended in this case of intermittent BGL? My email is [email protected]. Thanks in advance.
I wish to thank all the folks that have provided Mitsubishi 52525 repair information.
I also suffered the GBOD. I placed the the TV flat on it's face on the carpet. I removed lots o screwes, bagged and identified them by location. I was able to keep most of the cables intact.
The defective capacitors were easy to spot by bulges and popped tops.
The replacement capacitors were hard to find in Las Vegas but Kiesub Electronic Supply www.kiesub.com (3185 South Highland Drive, Las Vegas, NV 89109,(702) 733-0024)came to the rescue.
A Saturday morning, a few parts, a variable temperature soldering iron (
I'm having issues with my Mitsubishi ED52525. I have no picture and a solid red lamp light. I removed the lamp and took it to a neighborhood tv store and it tested as good. I have no audio other then static noise. Just wondering if there is something else I can try. Oh and I did a check for the error code and it came up #34 which says lamp abnormality. Would love to find a repair manual for this tv if it's available.
gene humphries said: I got a 34 as the code , could you please give me the cause for this Thanks Gene
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
I have replaced my capacitors, but am having trouble with a couple of connectors, that I can't figure out. Most of the connectors are labeled (at least ONE thing Mitsubishi did right!), but one in particular I am having trouble with. It is a red wire coming from the power board. The end connected to the board is labeled "PB", but I don't remember where the other end goes. Also, which is the chassis fan, and which is the fan on the rear plate:FN1, FN2 or FND? The other one I am having difficulty with, is the same type connector as the FN1 FN2 FND, with red yellow and black wire. It is toward the right (as you look from the back of the TV) and only has a green dot on it. To recap, is the chassis fan FN1, FN2 or FND. Is the fan on the plate that goes over the chassis when it is in the TV FN1, FN2 or FND? and the connector to the right with the green dot:is that FN1 FN2 or FND? I have tried to uplooad pictures, but am having trouble with that, too! I keep getting an "error during upload
" message. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer.
Hello, and thanks for responding. I tried to cut the picture size down to no avail.
Actually, my TV is now working. I tried it out without connecting the red wire, and it worked! All inputs seem to be OK, at least the ones I use: COMP1, INPUT1, and PC. Both fans I mentioned are running: the chassis fan, and the fan on the back plate. I connected the connector with the green dot to the only wire that reached it, of the three.
I am of course still concerned about the red wire, though. I don't like the idea of a connector that isn't connected, so if anyone knows what it is or where it goes, I would appreciate any input.
Two things I am noticing now:
1. There is a lightness on the screen directly above the center of the TV, above the Mitsubishi logo. It seems as though maybe there is a guard around the lamp that may be missing or not seated properly. It is faint, and not really noticeable, except occasionally during night viewing (which is when I do most of my viewing).
2. I am getting some interference in the form of faint diagonal moving black lines. These are not visible when viewing HD channels through my cable company, or when playing back any channel through DVR (recorded).
If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear from you, and would be most appreciative. Sorry for the long post, I tend to the verbose. (and poetic, it seems!)
So the connector PB (red wire) is the one that's not connected? I can try looking it up later where it gos.. I can probably tell you which board it goes to, but not necessarily where on the board.
Hi there.
Yes it is a red wire. One end is on the power board with a white connector, labeled "PB". The other end is a more generic connector, metal, and similar to older style connectors that I have seen. The connector is the type shown here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060974 without the heat shrink part.
Thanks again for your replies. You have been helpful.
Can anyone tell me what I might try next? I am not eager to replace the lamp if that is not the issue. As I stated, I took the lamp into a neighborhood shop and it tested as good. What should be my next step? Any thoughts out there?
Sorry, I should have stated that it is a WD52525 and the red lamp light is lit but the lamp is testing as good. Is there any other reason that the red light would be lit continuously? I have not audio other then the static noise. Anyone with any thoughts about what I can try?
Hey all, sorry for the huge delay in my answering some of your questions. I have been down very sick, but I am better now, thank goodness. Anyway, I will be answer some of the previous questions from the last 3 weeks very soon.
Flaming, a while back based on the symptoms I gave, you said I should change both my ballast and the bulb. I did both and it didn't work. I am still getting the red lamp LED. I don't understand because the input voltage appears to be correct and all of the control signals appear to also be correct into the ballast. I'm sending both the bulb and the ballast back to where I bought them to verify if they are indeed working. If they are both working, they certainly were not working on my unit. That must mean I have something else wrong, but I'm running out of ideas. Any more suggestions? Thanks.
thatguyflint said: Hi there. Yes it is a red wire. One end is on the power board with a white connector, labeled "PB". The other end is a more generic connector, metal, and similar to older style connectors that I have seen. The connector is the type shown here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060974 without the heat shrink part. Thanks again for your replies. You have been helpful.
I had a wire with that style connector that attached to a spade on the back side of the chassis. It was built onto the metal casing of one of the boards on the left side, looking from the back side of the chassis. I was thinking it was orange, but could have been red.
Hello, interesting and good info here- I have a problem with my wd-52525. The lamp led is on solid red- I replaced it and the timer counts down and then the lamp led goes solit red again- I replaced the lamp again and the same issue occured again. What should I check next? Any ideas? thanks. Keith
I have a wd-52725 that I recently changed the lamp in November of last year and afterwards I noticed that it would take longer and longer to turn on. There is no BGLOD but when I change channels it takes up to 3 to 4 seconds to respond. I also can not use the PIP anymore. It comes on and I can select different PIP modes but it will not tune in any channels. I also noticed that the fan stays on all the time. Does anyone know what this could be? Larry..anybody?
Update to all. A while back I posted my problem pertaining to a solid red lamp LED. I had a good response from Flaming and followed the suggested advice by replacing the lamp ballast. Once the new ballast arrived, I plugged it in but got the exact same result. The power supply voltages check out, the ballast input voltage checks out, and the discretes coming into the ballast (+5V, LAMPEN) look good. The bulb was replaced before I tried to fix anything so the bulb doesn't seem to be the problem either. If you see my previous post, the bulb will actually briefly illuminate briefly only if you try to measure the ballast input voltage.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the bulb wouldn't come on? If the input voltage to the ballast is correct, the bulb would/should come on if the discrete signals are correct. Upon measuring them they seem to check out, but can someone verify exactly what I should be measuring on the discretes? Any other suggestions?
Larry,
I also have the blinking light problem with my MITS. WD-52525 model. Could you please email me the repair instructions. My e-mail is [email protected]
Thanks John
I believe that was the same symptoms I had last year and the 2 3300 caps on the power board were swollen and leaking. That's all I changed and that fixed it. If you go in that deep need to change out other caps recommended by other posts. May find list in other topics in this forum.
I would like to try the switch mod on my WD-52527 but I only have a connector labeled FC1 which has several blue wires and one red. Do I break the red wire or is it a different connector on this model? I have only replaced the caps on the DM board so far.
My connector on the FMT board was not labeled. Looking at the board as it sits in the chassis facing the component side, it should say FMT in the top left corner. Looking down on it, the connector is on the end of the board away from the power board. Should be 2 black wires, a brown wire, and an orange wire. There are 2 sets of wires color coded the same color, make sure you cut into the bron and orange wires going to the connector on the FMT board. Instructions say use DPDT switch but a DPST (double pole single throw) works. I can send you photo of close-up of my board if you need.
Ok...I'm just not getting something. I don't see a connector with two black, one brown and one orange. Am I looking at the wrong board? If you can send a pic that would be outstanding.
I too have WD-52725 with the flashing green light problem and need some help. Could this be caused in any way by a power outage? We had an ice storm a few nights ago that took out the power. I have it plugged into a battery backup like the ones used for computers so that it doesn't turn off everytime there is a little flicker in the lights, when the power went out the TV stayed on until I turned it off. I also turned off the battery backup, when the power came back on I plugged everything in and I just get the flashing green light. Is it worth my time to persue the connected equipment warranty on the battery backup or the surge protector or should i just try to fix it myself? I am pretty mechanically inclined and I have some experience with a soldering iron. Please send me the diagrams on how to perform this repair. I also noticed in reading some of the earlier posts that there is some discussion of installing a switch. What is the purpose of this? I might go ahead and do it while I have it apart.
I have a wd-52525 and also was plugged into a battery backup / surge protection system. There have been a lot of posts where power failure or simply unplugging the TV resulted in the green blinking light when power is restored to the set. Good luck if filing a claim with UPS system.
As far as the switch, I have seen posts that tell about problem with boards booting up. I installed the switch and was able to get the green light to stop blinking. Since having to use it initially, we have lost power 2X and it did not require having to use the switch. Unless you like to take stuff back apart, I would install the switch while you have the TV chassis open.
I just realized that I forgot to include my email address. It is [email protected]. Could you please send me the repair instructions for the WD-52725 as well as the instructions for what ever switch is being installed along with a description of what does. I have seen references to the switch but I haven't yet found a post telling what it fixes.
Thanks in advance.
Hello,
My Mitsubishi WD-52525 is blinking the error code of
previous page (55) 6th post from bottom gives good explanation for switch
Hello, my TV has come down with the infamous blinking green timer light of death. I own a Mitsubishi wd-52525 52 inch TV. Can anyone send me the repair information . to fix this? My email is [email protected]. I really appreciate your help and any info you can give.
Hello, I too have the Mits wd-52525 52 inch TV with the BGLD. I replaced several capacitors and now it works but only sometimes. I seem to be able to get it working if it is unplugged for a while then if I wait for the BGL to stop. But it's not working consistently. Can someone please send me the information on the switch repair? Is there another fix that is recommended in this case of intermittent BGL? My email is [email protected]. Thanks in advance.
I wish to thank all the folks that have provided Mitsubishi 52525 repair information.
I also suffered the GBOD. I placed the the TV flat on it's face on the carpet. I removed lots o screwes, bagged and identified them by location. I was able to keep most of the cables intact.
The defective capacitors were easy to spot by bulges and popped tops.
The replacement capacitors were hard to find in Las Vegas but Kiesub Electronic Supply www.kiesub.com (3185 South Highland Drive, Las Vegas, NV 89109,(702) 733-0024)came to the rescue.
A Saturday morning, a few parts, a variable temperature soldering iron (
I'm having issues with my Mitsubishi ED52525. I have no picture and a solid red lamp light. I removed the lamp and took it to a neighborhood tv store and it tested as good. I have no audio other then static noise. Just wondering if there is something else I can try. Oh and I did a check for the error code and it came up #34 which says lamp abnormality. Would love to find a repair manual for this tv if it's available.
I got a 34 as the code , could you please give me the cause for this Thanks Gene
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
Hello, everybody (and especially Larry!)..
I have replaced my capacitors, but am having trouble with a couple of connectors, that I can't figure out. Most of the connectors are labeled (at least ONE thing Mitsubishi did right!), but one in particular I am having trouble with. It is a red wire coming from the power board. The end connected to the board is labeled "PB", but I don't remember where the other end goes. Also, which is the chassis fan, and which is the fan on the rear plate:FN1, FN2 or FND? The other one I am having difficulty with, is the same type connector as the FN1 FN2 FND, with red yellow and black wire. It is toward the right (as you look from the back of the TV) and only has a green dot on it. To recap, is the chassis fan FN1, FN2 or FND. Is the fan on the plate that goes over the chassis when it is in the TV FN1, FN2 or FND? and the connector to the right with the green dot:is that FN1 FN2 or FND? I have tried to uplooad pictures, but am having trouble with that, too! I keep getting an "error during upload
" message. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer.
Possibly your error in your upload photos is due to being too large of photos?
Also I remember on my 52725 there's one connector that's not connected. Can't remember which connector right now.
Hello, and thanks for responding. I tried to cut the picture size down to no avail.
Actually, my TV is now working. I tried it out without connecting the red wire, and it worked! All inputs seem to be OK, at least the ones I use: COMP1, INPUT1, and PC. Both fans I mentioned are running: the chassis fan, and the fan on the back plate. I connected the connector with the green dot to the only wire that reached it, of the three.
I am of course still concerned about the red wire, though. I don't like the idea of a connector that isn't connected, so if anyone knows what it is or where it goes, I would appreciate any input.
Two things I am noticing now:
1. There is a lightness on the screen directly above the center of the TV, above the Mitsubishi logo. It seems as though maybe there is a guard around the lamp that may be missing or not seated properly. It is faint, and not really noticeable, except occasionally during night viewing (which is when I do most of my viewing).
2. I am getting some interference in the form of faint diagonal moving black lines. These are not visible when viewing HD channels through my cable company, or when playing back any channel through DVR (recorded).
If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear from you, and would be most appreciative. Sorry for the long post, I tend to the verbose. (and poetic, it seems!)
So the connector PB (red wire) is the one that's not connected? I can try looking it up later where it gos.. I can probably tell you which board it goes to, but not necessarily where on the board.
Hi there.
Yes it is a red wire. One end is on the power board with a white connector, labeled "PB". The other end is a more generic connector, metal, and similar to older style connectors that I have seen. The connector is the type shown here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060974 without the heat shrink part.
Thanks again for your replies. You have been helpful.
Can anyone tell me what I might try next? I am not eager to replace the lamp if that is not the issue. As I stated, I took the lamp into a neighborhood shop and it tested as good. What should be my next step? Any thoughts out there?
Sorry, I should have stated that it is a WD52525 and the red lamp light is lit but the lamp is testing as good. Is there any other reason that the red light would be lit continuously? I have not audio other then the static noise. Anyone with any thoughts about what I can try?
Hey all, sorry for the huge delay in my answering some of your questions. I have been down very sick, but I am better now, thank goodness. Anyway, I will be answer some of the previous questions from the last 3 weeks very soon.
Flaming, a while back based on the symptoms I gave, you said I should change both my ballast and the bulb. I did both and it didn't work. I am still getting the red lamp LED. I don't understand because the input voltage appears to be correct and all of the control signals appear to also be correct into the ballast. I'm sending both the bulb and the ballast back to where I bought them to verify if they are indeed working. If they are both working, they certainly were not working on my unit. That must mean I have something else wrong, but I'm running out of ideas. Any more suggestions? Thanks.
I had a wire with that style connector that attached to a spade on the back side of the chassis. It was built onto the metal casing of one of the boards on the left side, looking from the back side of the chassis. I was thinking it was orange, but could have been red.
Should be under the big cluster of blue wires
Hello, interesting and good info here- I have a problem with my wd-52525. The lamp led is on solid red- I replaced it and the timer counts down and then the lamp led goes solit red again- I replaced the lamp again and the same issue occured again. What should I check next? Any ideas? thanks. Keith
Thank you very much for your help. I will look for that.
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