Dude these pics are huge you need to make them smaller. but if what you are talking about the wavy vertical lines in the pic I too have that and I was wondering the same thing. I can tollerate it but I thought it may be an AC signal being superimposed over the input. The ones I see are simular but mine are much more distorted into a larger sign wave shape or depending on the day they can show up almost horizontal in nature. Try looking at it with no signal and see if it is still there. if so I would be intrested in that fix as well. but as I stated that in my case I can live with it. I noticed it after I replaced my old board.
So i have done the manual convergence. It looks pretty good but there are a few imperfections. I think this may be due to the fact that the perfect focus doesnt seem to be working. When i did it in the service menus after doing the manual convergence it comes up goes all green says perfect focus flickers a couple times and then goes to a bright white/cream color on the entire screen and stays like that until i hit the add/erase button or anything else to get it out of perfect focus. So my question is, should i be worried about this not working? Will it make the convergence look even better? if so, how do i fix this? Thanks for your help
2 quick questions for a bad convergence issue on the Samsung HCL4715W.
1. The convergence board part number is: AA95-01846D?
2. If I replace the whole board do I have to manually adjust convergenece or is it a crap shoot? Sometimes 'yes', someitmes 'no'?
I just replaced the convergence board on my set. when I plugged in and turned back on the picture was shaking and now I get nothing just a couple of clicks and shuts off? Can anyone help?
take out the new board and try it again. If it comes on send back the new board and repair the old one go to tvrepairkits.com for a complete repair kit. this way you should not have to do that much realignment. there will be a little but should not be that much to do.
I already did that. There was a major alignment issue that I fixed by replacing just the IC for the blue and I think it also does half the green. But afterwards I was getting the wavy discoloration that wasn't really a misallignment. It might have just been the other chip getting ready to go because yesterday it blew one of the ICs again and the thing is all messed up. I ordered a couple new ICs AGAIN. If it happens one more time this thing is getting the sledge hammer.
Hi, I've got a problem with my HCL4715W that I don't think I've seen in this thread.
Earlier today the screen became almost painfully bright.
Even cutting the brightness down to 0 in the regular on-screen menu leaves greys where black should be. There's a bit of a bias towards green, but only a slight one. The picture is still sharp and perfect focus appears to work. The problem happens regardless of input (even when nothing is connected).
Any suggestions would be greatfully appreciated. The set is almost 8 years old now but I hope it has some good years left. :)
I have no idea if this has anything to do with your problem, but here goes. All the problems I've had with my 4715 over the years have been leaking CRTs. As the CRT seals age, coolant may leak out and cause weak shorts on the circuit boards below them. Even a single drop can wreak havoc. Larry Dillon has talked about this a number of times. I first started having problems when the set was about 5 years old.
I've had all sorts of symptoms, including with the set refusing to turn on main power, flickering horizontal red lines and bands, and unstable washed-out color. All these were caused by leaks in the red CRT shorting out various MAIN board signals. Recently I had the picture get larger and then disappear entirely. This turned out to be a new leak, this time from the green CRT, which hit the SUB (high-voltage) board. I think it screwed up one of the high-voltage generators on the SUB board.
It's hard to see coolant leaks because the fluid is transparent. I've had good luck with unplugging the set and feeling for a slippery fluid on the circuit boards under the CRTs. (Touch circuit ground first to prevent electrostatic discharge damage.) I use isopropyl alcohol wipes to clean up the coolant, which has worked so far. Until recently the problem would go away for 6 months or so. Lately the red leaks have become worse, so I've rigged up some cardboard baffles to catch the coolant and keep it off the circuit boards. I kept the baffles well away from any heat sinks to prevent overheating. I don't know how long this is going to work, but I figure the longer I can keep the set running the less it will cost to replace it.
lobster said:
Hi, I've got a problem with my HCL4715W that I don't think I've seen in this thread.
Earlier today the screen became almost painfully bright.
Even cutting the brightness down to 0 in the regular on-screen menu leaves greys where black should be. There's a bit of a bias towards green, but only a slight one. The picture is still sharp and perfect focus appears to work. The problem happens regardless of input (even when nothing is connected).
Any suggestions would be greatfully appreciated. The set is almost 8 years old now but I hope it has some good years left. :)
Thanks, Orin
Hey,
I had what seems to be the smae problem you are having but it was slighlty blue. This happened when i replaced my convergence board. Then one day it was fine and the tv was close to perfect. I can't explain it but end result was great for me. Good luck.
Hi, i just got a samsung HCL-473W from a friend, its in great shape, but there is no blue color. I was wondering if there is anything it could be other than the blue projector ie: resistor, chip, etc.. also where could I buy a projector.. the number i got off of the sticker said p16qdux, but I could not find anything with this number... any help would be great
Betajet said: Orin: I have no idea if this has anything to do with your problem, but here goes. All the problems I've had with my 4715 over the years have been leaking CRTs. As the CRT seals age, coolant may leak out and cause weak shorts on the circuit boards below them. Even a single drop can wreak havoc. Larry Dillon has talked about this a number of times. I first started having problems when the set was about 5 years old. I've had all sorts of symptoms, including with the set refusing to turn on main power, flickering horizontal red lines and bands, and unstable washed-out color. All these were caused by leaks in the red CRT shorting out various MAIN board signals. Recently I had the picture get larger and then disappear entirely. This turned out to be a new leak, this time from the green CRT, which hit the SUB (high-voltage) board. I think it screwed up one of the high-voltage generators on the SUB board. It's hard to see coolant leaks because the fluid is transparent. I've had good luck with unplugging the set and feeling for a slippery fluid on the circuit boards under the CRTs. (Touch circuit ground first to prevent electrostatic discharge damage.) I use isopropyl alcohol wipes to clean up the coolant, which has worked so far. Until recently the problem would go away for 6 months or so. Lately the red leaks have become worse, so I've rigged up some cardboard baffles to catch the coolant and keep it off the circuit boards. I kept the baffles well away from any heat sinks to prevent overheating. I don't know how long this is going to work, but I figure the longer I can keep the set running the less it will cost to replace it.
Thank you so much for your quick reply! I was able to get the set opened up today and immediately saw a few drops of coolant. With eight years of dust intact it was easy to see where it was. :) I gave it a wipe-down in that area with some alcohol swabs and then blew out the dust.
After buttoning it up it's so-far, so-good, but I'll leave it on for a while to see if the leak comes back once it really warms up. After I posted but before the cleaning I did power it up a couple times, and it was generally OK for a little while, but then went "funny" again, seeming to intermittenly lose control of color levels and brightness.
Your idea of a baffle sounds like a good one. Back when I used to work in the pinball industry we used a material called "fish paper" in a sort of box around the transformer, so that the various high voltage leads were "safe" from a dropped tool when a repair was being made. Perhaps that material would be good for a baffle, though I'd be concerned about how large surfaces would change the air flow through the unit. I didn't see a fan in there, so I assume it depends on convective air flow for cooling.
I'm not a TV expert (I'm a computer engineer) but I've had some luck with repairs to my HCL4715W. Before you replace the blue projector, there are lots of possible failures that could cause bad signals to get to a good projector. Please take a look at my Sept 16th post to Orin about drops of CRT coolant. Even a single drop of CRT coolant can (weakly) short out arbitrary signals, depending on where it falls, causing arbitrary failure modes. As I said in that posting, I've had a number of problems with my set over the last few years, and ALL of them have been due to coolant leaks.
Check that all the cables to the blue projector are plugged in properly. One may have gotten loose over the years.
Another way you can lose a color is if one of the "STK" high-voltage power op amps fails on the high-voltage board. These are the two large ICs mounted onto the big heat sinks and control the horizontal and vertical positions of the beams in the three projectors. I've never had problems with mine, but there has been a lot of discussion about this on this thread. When an STK starts to go, the color convergences gets out of whack. If it fails utterly, a horizontal or vertical beam may get stuck at the top, bottom, left, or right edge of the projector and you won't see that color on the screen (though you might be able to see it looking down into the projector from inside). This same symptom can occur if one of the feedback resistors associated with an STK fails.
Checking for coolant and connectors can be done without bothering with schematics. Just make sure you unplug the set and take anti-static precautions. If you're knowledgable about electronics, can follow schematics, and have a suitable oscilloscope you can see if reasonable signals are getting to the blue projector. There are lots of dangerously high voltages inside the set, so don't do this unless you really know what you're doing. If they look good, then you probably need a new projector. If the signals are bad, the problem is in the circuitry that generates those signals and a new projector won't help.
Wow, this thread is awesome! Tons of good stuff. I have a new problem here though...
I have a HCL4715W that wont turn on, just clicks a couple times. As Larry suggested in another post I unplugged the power sires to the SUB board (plug CN803), and the thing actually powered on! I would go ahead and replace the STK ICs, but the thing is that I had absolutely no convergence problems before the TV stopped working. Is it possible something else could be wrong with the board, or can this happen because an STK?
what is happening is, there is a dead short on the board. it is probably a short in the stk to ground.
as this is also a hot chassis set you will need to be careful. the convergence board also has all of the HIGH voltage to light the three tubes.
so really the short can be anywhere on the board. As I have stated in previous posts it is cheaper to change the board.
Though it can be also be from a coolant leak as well.
The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,
I am having the same problem with convergence. Does anyone else think that this is a bit strage? I've been on other sites as well, it seems like alot of people are having this same problem. I'm not saying that the TV is brand new. Is this the reputation that Samsung wants? A TV should last more then 5 years! I have two Sony's and they have lasted me 10 years each. I won't be spending the money to fix this Samsung! I will make it a point to tell anyone who listens about this problem, hope all of you will too. Samsung should fix this
The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK IC'S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made IC'S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases GOOD LUCK!!!
Larry Dillon. http://www.fixya.com/support/r3342653-convergence_fix
Larry, how hard is it to put the new convergence it in? Is that somthing I could do myself? I have very little electronics experience. Thank you so much for the quick response.
if you can follow instructions it is not hard at all. most folks write back and are amazed at how easy it was to do with the easy to follow directions/instructions,
Larry Dillon.
Mostly Success! I pulled out the IC board and found that some coolant had leaked in between a couple jumpers and caused a nasty short that severed one of them. So after cleaning the board and checking all of the components near the burn area, I rewired the severed jumper, and booyah! TV works!
Now the picture is ok, but is nowhere near where it should be. The convergence appears to be ok, not perfect, but the picture in 1080i & 480p looks pixelated, almost fuzzy. I attached a couple of pictures for comparison one from a LCD HDTV and one from my Samsung.
Hard to get a good picture of it but the "Connect an Xbox 360 HD" text is the closest to what it looks like in person
no not purity but the main focus looks a bit off.or maybe the three lens and mirrors need to be cleaned.there is A recent article here on techlore that explains how to do this.
Larry Dillon.
you guys keep talking about fluid leaking on your circuit boards. I do not care how much you clean it or what you clean it with... it will never be clean. unless you replace the board you will always have trouble.
Dude these pics are huge you need to make them smaller. but if what you are talking about the wavy vertical lines in the pic I too have that and I was wondering the same thing. I can tollerate it but I thought it may be an AC signal being superimposed over the input. The ones I see are simular but mine are much more distorted into a larger sign wave shape or depending on the day they can show up almost horizontal in nature. Try looking at it with no signal and see if it is still there. if so I would be intrested in that fix as well. but as I stated that in my case I can live with it. I noticed it after I replaced my old board.
rescue25
Yeah, I probably should have shrunk the pics.
It's tollerable but i'd like to fix it if I can.
So i have done the manual convergence. It looks pretty good but there are a few imperfections. I think this may be due to the fact that the perfect focus doesnt seem to be working. When i did it in the service menus after doing the manual convergence it comes up goes all green says perfect focus flickers a couple times and then goes to a bright white/cream color on the entire screen and stays like that until i hit the add/erase button or anything else to get it out of perfect focus. So my question is, should i be worried about this not working? Will it make the convergence look even better? if so, how do i fix this? Thanks for your help
2 quick questions for a bad convergence issue on the Samsung HCL4715W.
1. The convergence board part number is: AA95-01846D?
2. If I replace the whole board do I have to manually adjust convergenece or is it a crap shoot? Sometimes 'yes', someitmes 'no'?
Thanks!
YES!!!!! IT IS A TRAPSHOOTING SOMETIMES YOU Have to adjust some you
So, no one has any feed back about the cause of the discoloration on my TV and how to fix it?
I just replaced the convergence board on my set. when I plugged in and turned back on the picture was shaking and now I get nothing just a couple of clicks and shuts off? Can anyone help?
take out the new board and try it again. If it comes on send back the new board and repair the old one go to tvrepairkits.com for a complete repair kit. this way you should not have to do that much realignment. there will be a little but should not be that much to do.
No, it's the CRT projection. Same model that this entire thread is about......
OK,MattRados replace the convergence board or go to tvrepairkits,com and order a repair kit, it is better to repair the board that is in the set
I already did that. There was a major alignment issue that I fixed by replacing just the IC for the blue and I think it also does half the green. But afterwards I was getting the wavy discoloration that wasn't really a misallignment. It might have just been the other chip getting ready to go because yesterday it blew one of the ICs again and the thing is all messed up. I ordered a couple new ICs AGAIN. If it happens one more time this thing is getting the sledge hammer.
you should ALWAYS replace BOTH chips at ONCE!!! Along with any bad resistors.
Hi, I've got a problem with my HCL4715W that I don't think I've seen in this thread.
Earlier today the screen became almost painfully bright.
Even cutting the brightness down to 0 in the regular on-screen menu leaves greys where black should be. There's a bit of a bias towards green, but only a slight one. The picture is still sharp and perfect focus appears to work. The problem happens regardless of input (even when nothing is connected).
Any suggestions would be greatfully appreciated. The set is almost 8 years old now but I hope it has some good years left. :)
Thanks, Orin
Orin:
I have no idea if this has anything to do with your problem, but here goes. All the problems I've had with my 4715 over the years have been leaking CRTs. As the CRT seals age, coolant may leak out and cause weak shorts on the circuit boards below them. Even a single drop can wreak havoc. Larry Dillon has talked about this a number of times. I first started having problems when the set was about 5 years old.
I've had all sorts of symptoms, including with the set refusing to turn on main power, flickering horizontal red lines and bands, and unstable washed-out color. All these were caused by leaks in the red CRT shorting out various MAIN board signals. Recently I had the picture get larger and then disappear entirely. This turned out to be a new leak, this time from the green CRT, which hit the SUB (high-voltage) board. I think it screwed up one of the high-voltage generators on the SUB board.
It's hard to see coolant leaks because the fluid is transparent. I've had good luck with unplugging the set and feeling for a slippery fluid on the circuit boards under the CRTs. (Touch circuit ground first to prevent electrostatic discharge damage.) I use isopropyl alcohol wipes to clean up the coolant, which has worked so far. Until recently the problem would go away for 6 months or so. Lately the red leaks have become worse, so I've rigged up some cardboard baffles to catch the coolant and keep it off the circuit boards. I kept the baffles well away from any heat sinks to prevent overheating. I don't know how long this is going to work, but I figure the longer I can keep the set running the less it will cost to replace it.
Hey,
I had what seems to be the smae problem you are having but it was slighlty blue. This happened when i replaced my convergence board. Then one day it was fine and the tv was close to perfect. I can't explain it but end result was great for me. Good luck.
Hi, i just got a samsung HCL-473W from a friend, its in great shape, but there is no blue color. I was wondering if there is anything it could be other than the blue projector ie: resistor, chip, etc.. also where could I buy a projector.. the number i got off of the sticker said p16qdux, but I could not find anything with this number... any help would be great
Thank you so much for your quick reply! I was able to get the set opened up today and immediately saw a few drops of coolant. With eight years of dust intact it was easy to see where it was. :) I gave it a wipe-down in that area with some alcohol swabs and then blew out the dust.
After buttoning it up it's so-far, so-good, but I'll leave it on for a while to see if the leak comes back once it really warms up. After I posted but before the cleaning I did power it up a couple times, and it was generally OK for a little while, but then went "funny" again, seeming to intermittenly lose control of color levels and brightness.
Your idea of a baffle sounds like a good one. Back when I used to work in the pinball industry we used a material called "fish paper" in a sort of box around the transformer, so that the various high voltage leads were "safe" from a dropped tool when a repair was being made. Perhaps that material would be good for a baffle, though I'd be concerned about how large surfaces would change the air flow through the unit. I didn't see a fan in there, so I assume it depends on convective air flow for cooling.
I guess I should also start saving for a new TV.
coopdc78:
I'm not a TV expert (I'm a computer engineer) but I've had some luck with repairs to my HCL4715W. Before you replace the blue projector, there are lots of possible failures that could cause bad signals to get to a good projector. Please take a look at my Sept 16th post to Orin about drops of CRT coolant. Even a single drop of CRT coolant can (weakly) short out arbitrary signals, depending on where it falls, causing arbitrary failure modes. As I said in that posting, I've had a number of problems with my set over the last few years, and ALL of them have been due to coolant leaks.
Check that all the cables to the blue projector are plugged in properly. One may have gotten loose over the years.
Another way you can lose a color is if one of the "STK" high-voltage power op amps fails on the high-voltage board. These are the two large ICs mounted onto the big heat sinks and control the horizontal and vertical positions of the beams in the three projectors. I've never had problems with mine, but there has been a lot of discussion about this on this thread. When an STK starts to go, the color convergences gets out of whack. If it fails utterly, a horizontal or vertical beam may get stuck at the top, bottom, left, or right edge of the projector and you won't see that color on the screen (though you might be able to see it looking down into the projector from inside). This same symptom can occur if one of the feedback resistors associated with an STK fails.
Checking for coolant and connectors can be done without bothering with schematics. Just make sure you unplug the set and take anti-static precautions. If you're knowledgable about electronics, can follow schematics, and have a suitable oscilloscope you can see if reasonable signals are getting to the blue projector. There are lots of dangerously high voltages inside the set, so don't do this unless you really know what you're doing. If they look good, then you probably need a new projector. If the signals are bad, the problem is in the circuitry that generates those signals and a new projector won't help.
larry, I have this same model samsung the problem I'm having is it won't power on the red led light comes on but no sound or pic. any ideas?
Wow, this thread is awesome! Tons of good stuff. I have a new problem here though...
I have a HCL4715W that wont turn on, just clicks a couple times. As Larry suggested in another post I unplugged the power sires to the SUB board (plug CN803), and the thing actually powered on! I would go ahead and replace the STK ICs, but the thing is that I had absolutely no convergence problems before the TV stopped working. Is it possible something else could be wrong with the board, or can this happen because an STK?
what is happening is, there is a dead short on the board. it is probably a short in the stk to ground.
as this is also a hot chassis set you will need to be careful. the convergence board also has all of the HIGH voltage to light the three tubes.
so really the short can be anywhere on the board. As I have stated in previous posts it is cheaper to change the board.
Though it can be also be from a coolant leak as well.
Rescue25
The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,
I am having the same problem with convergence. Does anyone else think that this is a bit strage? I've been on other sites as well, it seems like alot of people are having this same problem. I'm not saying that the TV is brand new. Is this the reputation that Samsung wants? A TV should last more then 5 years! I have two Sony's and they have lasted me 10 years each. I won't be spending the money to fix this Samsung! I will make it a point to tell anyone who listens about this problem, hope all of you will too. Samsung should fix this
The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK IC'S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made IC'S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases GOOD LUCK!!!
Larry Dillon.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3342653-convergence_fix
Larry, how hard is it to put the new convergence it in? Is that somthing I could do myself? I have very little electronics experience. Thank you so much for the quick response.
if you can follow instructions it is not hard at all. most folks write back and are amazed at how easy it was to do with the easy to follow directions/instructions,
Larry Dillon.
Mostly Success! I pulled out the IC board and found that some coolant had leaked in between a couple jumpers and caused a nasty short that severed one of them. So after cleaning the board and checking all of the components near the burn area, I rewired the severed jumper, and booyah! TV works!
Now the picture is ok, but is nowhere near where it should be. The convergence appears to be ok, not perfect, but the picture in 1080i & 480p looks pixelated, almost fuzzy. I attached a couple of pictures for comparison one from a LCD HDTV and one from my Samsung.
Hard to get a good picture of it but the "Connect an Xbox 360 HD" text is the closest to what it looks like in person
Aint that Purty? From the lcd tv. Both in 1080i.
Anyone know what the problem could be?
no not purity but the main focus looks a bit off.or maybe the three lens and mirrors need to be cleaned.there is A recent article here on techlore that explains how to do this.
Larry Dillon.
you guys keep talking about fluid leaking on your circuit boards. I do not care how much you clean it or what you clean it with... it will never be clean. unless you replace the board you will always have trouble.
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