Not trying to be a nuisance - Can someone tell me about this?: (post is above)
Hi all - I have some free time and decided to work on this set again. I got a message from another user a few months back who was having the same probs as me. He had unplugged the convergence module, and he said his set came on. So I tried it - bingo! I have a picture! Although the convergence is messed up on it. The convergence board (part # AA41-06717C) has been doctored up - it has one wire on the IC side that is soldered in and three on the other side that are all ending on one end at the board connector - looks like EF03 or EF04 (printed on the circuit board).
V-BlK------EF03 or EF04
H-BLK------same
D-Focus----same
There are small resistors between each of the above.
If I can just replace this board and get a working set, I would be very happy...
The problem I run into with the service manuals I do find is that the 47 inch specs are not in the manuals. I need the numbers for the 47 incher, and in the service manual for the 47, it gives the 55, 57, etc. Does anyone have the pages to the specs for the 47 inch?
Please someone help me! This previous post relates to me:
" got lucky! It turns out my problem (HCL4715W does not power on) was entirely related to oil in the MICOM (control CPU) card. I looked carefully at the board under a bright light and saw that the black oily goo was under the 64-pin Euro connector as well. I tilted the connector (desoldered one of the hold-down clips) and cleaned under it with isopropyl alcohol, and also around the pins that were in the oily area. This actually changed the resistance between pins so the oil was definitely acting as a weak short. I let everything dry, plugged MICOM in and TV came right up.
Larry, I've seen a few of your comments about oil leaking from picture tubes and messing things up. Do you have a longer article describing the oil in more detail, e.g., why it's used, what it does to PC boards (and humans), and how best to clean it up and prevent future problems?"
end quote.
I need to stop this coolant from leaking onto my board. I read on another post about tightening some nuts under each "tube" to stop this. How tight? Will this work? Will someone please help me?
TaterBoss said: The problem I run into with the service manuals I do find is that the 47 inch specs are not in the manuals. I need the numbers for the 47 incher, and in the service manual for the 47, it gives the 55, 57, etc. Does anyone have the pages to the specs for the 47 inch?
Don't worry about that. Just start with the initial settings and work from there. I found that when I went into the service menu the values could be off any way. I had to reset the horizontal and vertical sizes because they were set for the larger sets. I could never figure out why parts of the screen seemed to be always missing.
Well once I went in and reset the values in the Geometric settings it made a huge difference.
Though the biggest thing is remember you will have to reset the convergence on the whole screen. the perfect focus will not work in this case. Be Sure you do not forget the lock in the values for each color as if you do not the next time that you turn on your set the convergence will be just as screwed up as it was when you started.
But after playing with these settings you notice huge differences.
FYI I almost forgot you will need to check all of the four major input types to be sure that the vertical and horizontal sizes just fill the screen with out loosing a lot of information. To besure every thing lines up you might want to run strings across the front of the screen to besure that the focus is dead on but I will be the first to admit that this could be quite obsessive but it will help out in getting the focus just right. My OCD moment.
jakkwb said: Not trying to be a nuisance - Can someone tell me about this?: (post is above) Hi all - I have some free time and decided to work on this set again. I got a message from another user a few months back who was having the same probs as me. He had unplugged the convergence module, and he said his set came on. So I tried it - bingo! I have a picture! Although the convergence is messed up on it. The convergence board (part # AA41-06717C) has been doctored up - it has one wire on the IC side that is soldered in and three on the other side that are all ending on one end at the board connector - looks like EF03 or EF04 (printed on the circuit board). V-BlK------EF03 or EF04 H-BLK------same D-Focus----same There are small resistors between each of the above. If I can just replace this board and get a working set, I would be very happy... What do I do next? Very anxious to get this going again!
Well I found it is just cheaper to replace the board. I found one on eBay for 90 dollars. though if you want to do the board level repair check out the service manual. Depending on the problem it is just so much faster to just change it out.
Well the service manual is available in a post that I think Larry put back for me just last week.
I was rereading your post and you mentioned this board was repaired already?? If it is still in warranty then send it back if you cannot align the tubes.
Now as for the resistors you mentioned. These jumpers to the resistors and to that one tie point is usually to a common voltage point or to GND. At the repair shop, from where this board came, this would be a standard way to repair the board if there was what we call a blown trace. A trace is one of the wires on the PC board. I know that this may be stating the obvious but it is for information only.
If it is one or two of the colors are shrinking in from the top then it is an IC problem. I priced checked replacing the ICs and the related components it would cost more in time and grief that getting the board. and the parts would not be warranted. Even with shipping the board replacement is the most cost effective. Also check if they have a core charge the supplier might discount the price to you for returning the board you have. You see a win-win for everyone.
If they seem to be out of focus then it is an alignment problem. The alignment problem can be solved quite easily. Check out my post on alignment in a previous post.
Lindquist said: "Hello, I have 2 different problems but hoping somebody can help. 1. I just upgraded to HD but my tv (HCL4715) will not display the HD channels, they are all fuzzy and have squiggly lines. We tried a different cable box and it does the same thing so I'm pretty sure it is something with the tv. 2. My component 2 does not work, the picture is all distorted. I tried both the new cable box and my DVD player which has been hooked up to component 1 and has always worked." Can anybody help????
I asked myself about this one myself. Well I did some more research and found that componet 1 is STD HD. That is 720 lines Compnent 2 is 1080i it is interlaced. that makes a huge difference. The output of the recorder was probally correct and if you hook it back and it works fine then the problem in in the cable box. See if it can be adjusted to 1080I on component two. If the cable box it displaying in 1080p the set will not work. Double check you owners manual.
Thanks for the information. Well, as I stated earlier, I had this set working - I had it on, and I heard a pop. Some CRT coolant dripped onto one or more of the boards. . I cleaned all the boards up, no noticeable damage, but the picture will not come on now, just sound works.
I don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions?
jakkwb said: Rescue25, Thanks for the information. Well, as I stated earlier, I had this set working - I had it on, and I heard a pop. Some CRT coolant dripped onto one or more of the boards. . I cleaned all the boards up, no noticeable damage, but the picture will not come on now, just sound works. I don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions?
I'm a computer engineer and not a TV expert, but here are my suggestions.
Hearing a pop doesn't sound good. With luck, it's just a fuse, otherwise it could take a while to track it down. First, if you disconnected any cables while you were cleaning, double check them. In fact, double check them anyway, wiggling them gently to make sure none are loose.
There are lots of fuses in the TV. Along with the immediately noticable glass ones, there are lots of "pico fuses" that look like resistors. There are a number of these deep in the forest of heat sinks on the power supply board, and also some on the high-voltage board (called SUB in the schematics). You can check them with an ohmmeter.
Before checking fuses, another good test is to check the voltages on the pink cables that connect the POWER board to the SUB board. Disconnect the cables so you can get at the pins on the POWER board and so the high-voltage circuits on the SUB board are off. Some of the POWER voltages are dangerous, so be very careful. Also, some have their own grounds which are different from the common ground -- see the schematics. It's very easy to accidentally short adjacent pins while probing and get sparks, so be careful. If you find that a voltage is missing, check its fuses.
Since you heard a pop, it's worth scanning the boards looking for traces of "magic smoke" that escape components when they pop.
as Betajet stated there are a forest of other fuses on the board. and as Larry stated you have to realize every part has just one Puff of smoke in each of them. If you can find it the best part cleaner to use is some for of head cleaner that is available at MCM electronics sister of Newark. it is freon based and leaves no residue. Be Careful which one you get as some contain a lubricant. and that will short out more parts. If it has not been mentioned you must use pure isopropyl alcohol otherwise it will leave traces. and the pop you heard could be also a blown trace. You did mention that there jumpers on the sub board. They would be evident with blackend spots on the board. just remember all locations of your cables as mentioned before. I could not find in the manual where the oil fill location is located. Any thoughts anyone else?
I have read the entire forum, downloaded the manual for my tv and it seems that I also have to replace my board. But just to be sure before I make any moves I wanted to throw in my info and make sure i am doing the correct things. I have posted some pictures of what my television looks like as of now. This same thing happened about a month ago but corrected itself after having it powered off for an hour or so. This time I had it unplugged for a few hours and turned off over night, but no change has occurred. Based on the picture, the info on my television and the parts and or service needed, which route do I take? Do I order the parts to repair the IC chips and fuses, replace the power supply sub board, or just replace the converter board? Also, samsung has the part number for my model number television as AA95-01846B, where as partstore.com has it listed stating that the AA95-01846D part is compatible with the pcl models as well. So I guess my question is, If I need to order a board, do I need the
AA95-01846D - suggested board on this site
AA95-01846B - suggested board from samsung parts
BP94-00155A - PCB assemply
or do I need to find some other form of conversion board?
My TV Info is: Samsung model number PCL5415R with Service number X/XAA September 2001
I tried to show pictures that have the curved red line alone with dark backdrop and the haziness and double vision of a colored screen.
Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Take out the convergence board, send it to ptscorp.com go to the website and contact them and see how much it will be to overhaul your convergence board, that way you have the right board for your set. when you take out the board there will be a number on the board.
Larry is right and just for kicks and giggles check out the price for a replacement board for comparison. You need to keep in mind the turn around time for the repair and if they will warranty the repair. These are things you will need to consider. A replacement board will probably have a 30 to 90 day warranty. Also consider the shipping cost to and from your home. I had excellent luck with the vendor I purchased my board from and eBay. This will work best once you determine the board you are looking at matches. I had my new board in less than a week and it works very well. Back in the day I would have loved to repair the board myself. But I have to be pragmatic and a board swap is the easiest.
as long as you get the exact number for the board, that is why I suggest taking out the board first and looking at the number. Man I lost count on how many times I ordered parts from a service manual and found them to be the wrong parts!!
I have been given an hcl4715, and will be getting the convergence board to replace what's in it now, but we're having a problem. The remote control. If I have batteries in it, the controls on the front of the tv don't work, the timer light blinks constantly, and the light on the remote to show that we're using tv, cable, vcr, whatever will be red on tv, but green on cable, but refuses to work. So is the remote set to run differently than I am trying to use it? We're on cable, and I'm not sure what the original owner (my brother) was using, but it was probably satellite, but I don't see why that would be a problem. I can say that when I first turned it on, it was on IFC whatever that is. I finally figured out that the remote was causing problems, and removed the batteries, so I was able to get the tv to show channels. But I want the remote to work, especially if I have to use the joy stick to do anything. I have not been able to find anything googling for problems with the remote. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? We are using new batteries, btw.
Ticklemonster said: I have been given an hcl4715, and will be getting the convergence board to replace what's in it now, but we're having a problem. The remote control. If I have batteries in it, the controls on the front of the tv don't work, the timer light blinks constantly, and the light on the remote to show that we're using tv, cable, vcr, whatever will be red on tv, but green on cable, but refuses to work. So is the remote set to run differently than I am trying to use it? We're on cable, and I'm not sure what the original owner (my brother) was using, but it was probably satellite, but I don't see why that would be a problem. I can say that when I first turned it on, it was on IFC whatever that is. I finally figured out that the remote was causing problems, and removed the batteries, so I was able to get the tv to show channels. But I want the remote to work, especially if I have to use the joy stick to do anything. I have not been able to find anything googling for problems with the remote. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? We are using new batteries, btw.
You know, I think I had a problem like this many years ago with my remote.
My just-a-guess is that one (or more) of the remote control's buttons is stuck on. This causes the timer LED on the TV to blink continuously, and should also cause the TV LED on the remote to blink continuously as well, assuming the remote is in TV mode. As a first step, take the remote to another room and try pressing all the buttons a few times to unstick whichever one is stuck. Don't forget the bunch of buttons under the secret panel at the top of the remote.
If that doesn't work, it may be that one of the switches is shorted inside the remote, perhaps due to a spilled drink. If you're technically minded, you could try taking the remote apart (main screw is under the batteries) and cleaning the switch surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to dump the key pads all over the place, and be sure to have the owner's manual handy in case you do. It's available at Samsung web site if your brother lost it. Be careful of static discharge: touch the negative battery terminal of the remote to discharge yourself before touching anything else on the remote's circuit board.
Remote control switches are really cheaply made, so the return mechanism can flake out with lots of use. You may just have to get a new remote.
Good sound advice. I'll do that. I already found a replacement for it, just in case, for about 28 bucks. Thank you! We've got a 50 inch Vizio in the front room, but my brother was going to toss this one and figured I might want to tinker with it. It ought to make a decent tv for the Wii.
I ordered a new convergence board for my hcl4715 and installed it as per all the information posted. It fixed the convergence problem, except the absence of red on the screen. Does this sound like a loose connection on the new board or something else? Red was working fine before the replacement.
guywithquestion said: I ordered a new convergence board for my hcl4715 and installed it as per all the information posted. It fixed the convergence problem, except the absence of red on the screen. Does this sound like a loose connection on the new board or something else? Red was working fine before the replacement. Thank you for any help.
Following Larry's advice earlier in the thread, I'd suspect a loose cable. With power off, double-check each cable (i.e., gently wiggle each connector) that you touched when you replaced the board. Make sure there are no extra cables not plugged into anything. Also check the other end of the cables, since they may have been slightly loose when you got started and your board replacement may have made them more loose. Be sure to check the cables going to the CRTs.
If this doesn't work, another possibility is that you bent a pin when plugging in a connector, for example the one that brings in low voltage red from the main board.
Thank you Betajet. I checked each cable and their opposite ends as well as the pins and everything was fine. Any other suggestions? Could the new board be defective?
guywithquestion said: Thank you Betajet. I checked each cable and their opposite ends as well as the pins and everything was fine. Any other suggestions? Could the new board be defective? Thank you.
The board could be defective. I'm a computer engineer, not a TV expert so you should see if others on the site have advice.
My understanding from the schematics is that the high-voltage board (called SUB in the service manual) controls the horizontal and vertical movement of each CRT's electron beam by amplifying the low-voltage signals from the main board using high-voltage op-amps (those big ICs with the big heat sinks). If red's op-amp is defective or a resistor in the feedback path is broken, the red beam could be stuck at a minimum or maximum horizontal or vertical position so you can't see it on the screen. That's just one possible failure mode.
Larry is right swap it back and then see what happens. I thought I had a simular problem but I later found that I missed one of the cables leading to the crt's. Some times they get caught under the board when they are installed. does the red tube light up in any way? Take the front screen off if you need to. It slides off from the side you will need to dissassemble the front frame. As mentioned before the gun can be stuck to one end of the screen if it is not sweeping.
First, thank you for all of your help. Before I took the new board out I looked at the red tube, it was as though there was a hint of light showing, but not much. So I then put the old board back in and the red tube was fully lit and quite obvious on the screen with the convergence out.
I would appreciate any more advice as what might be the problem and how to proceed. Thank you in advance.
I replaced the IC that was for the blue/green and the TV works much better. The grids are lined up perfectly in the service mode. However, I'm getting a "rainbow" effect now. There are vertical lines where the color is messed up and redish. It doesn't look anything like the other pictures here where there are 3 seperate pictures that just arn't lined up, it's just a coloring issue. It's more noticable when the screen is freally dark or really light. Is there something else that needs adjusted or could the other IC need replaced as well? A friend of mine looked at it and mentioned de-gausing but I can't find anything in the service manual about it.
kinda off topic I am looking for a good forum for hp pavillion 9000 series notebooks. got one for free but it has it's troubles. I have been working on electronics since '82 but I try not to mess with notebooks too much. Any suggestions??
Not trying to be a nuisance - Can someone tell me about this?: (post is above)
Hi all - I have some free time and decided to work on this set again. I got a message from another user a few months back who was having the same probs as me. He had unplugged the convergence module, and he said his set came on. So I tried it - bingo! I have a picture! Although the convergence is messed up on it. The convergence board (part # AA41-06717C) has been doctored up - it has one wire on the IC side that is soldered in and three on the other side that are all ending on one end at the board connector - looks like EF03 or EF04 (printed on the circuit board).
V-BlK------EF03 or EF04
H-BLK------same
D-Focus----same
There are small resistors between each of the above.
If I can just replace this board and get a working set, I would be very happy...
What do I do next?
Very anxious to get this going again!
The problem I run into with the service manuals I do find is that the 47 inch specs are not in the manuals. I need the numbers for the 47 incher, and in the service manual for the 47, it gives the 55, 57, etc. Does anyone have the pages to the specs for the 47 inch?
Please someone help me! This previous post relates to me:
" got lucky! It turns out my problem (HCL4715W does not power on) was entirely related to oil in the MICOM (control CPU) card. I looked carefully at the board under a bright light and saw that the black oily goo was under the 64-pin Euro connector as well. I tilted the connector (desoldered one of the hold-down clips) and cleaned under it with isopropyl alcohol, and also around the pins that were in the oily area. This actually changed the resistance between pins so the oil was definitely acting as a weak short. I let everything dry, plugged MICOM in and TV came right up.
Larry, I've seen a few of your comments about oil leaking from picture tubes and messing things up. Do you have a longer article describing the oil in more detail, e.g., why it's used, what it does to PC boards (and humans), and how best to clean it up and prevent future problems?"
end quote.
I need to stop this coolant from leaking onto my board. I read on another post about tightening some nuts under each "tube" to stop this. How tight? Will this work? Will someone please help me?
Don't worry about that. Just start with the initial settings and work from there. I found that when I went into the service menu the values could be off any way. I had to reset the horizontal and vertical sizes because they were set for the larger sets. I could never figure out why parts of the screen seemed to be always missing.
Well once I went in and reset the values in the Geometric settings it made a huge difference.
Though the biggest thing is remember you will have to reset the convergence on the whole screen. the perfect focus will not work in this case. Be Sure you do not forget the lock in the values for each color as if you do not the next time that you turn on your set the convergence will be just as screwed up as it was when you started.
But after playing with these settings you notice huge differences.
FYI I almost forgot you will need to check all of the four major input types to be sure that the vertical and horizontal sizes just fill the screen with out loosing a lot of information. To besure every thing lines up you might want to run strings across the front of the screen to besure that the focus is dead on but I will be the first to admit that this could be quite obsessive but it will help out in getting the focus just right. My OCD moment.
have fun.
Well I found it is just cheaper to replace the board. I found one on eBay for 90 dollars. though if you want to do the board level repair check out the service manual. Depending on the problem it is just so much faster to just change it out.
Well the service manual is available in a post that I think Larry put back for me just last week.
I was rereading your post and you mentioned this board was repaired already?? If it is still in warranty then send it back if you cannot align the tubes.
Now as for the resistors you mentioned. These jumpers to the resistors and to that one tie point is usually to a common voltage point or to GND. At the repair shop, from where this board came, this would be a standard way to repair the board if there was what we call a blown trace. A trace is one of the wires on the PC board. I know that this may be stating the obvious but it is for information only.
If it is one or two of the colors are shrinking in from the top then it is an IC problem. I priced checked replacing the ICs and the related components it would cost more in time and grief that getting the board. and the parts would not be warranted. Even with shipping the board replacement is the most cost effective. Also check if they have a core charge the supplier might discount the price to you for returning the board you have. You see a win-win for everyone.
If they seem to be out of focus then it is an alignment problem. The alignment problem can be solved quite easily. Check out my post on alignment in a previous post.
I asked myself about this one myself. Well I did some more research and found that componet 1 is STD HD. That is 720 lines Compnent 2 is 1080i it is interlaced. that makes a huge difference. The output of the recorder was probally correct and if you hook it back and it works fine then the problem in in the cable box. See if it can be adjusted to 1080I on component two. If the cable box it displaying in 1080p the set will not work. Double check you owners manual.
Rescue25,
Thanks for the information. Well, as I stated earlier, I had this set working - I had it on, and I heard a pop. Some CRT coolant dripped onto one or more of the boards. . I cleaned all the boards up, no noticeable damage, but the picture will not come on now, just sound works.
I don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions?
I'm a computer engineer and not a TV expert, but here are my suggestions.
Hearing a pop doesn't sound good. With luck, it's just a fuse, otherwise it could take a while to track it down. First, if you disconnected any cables while you were cleaning, double check them. In fact, double check them anyway, wiggling them gently to make sure none are loose.
There are lots of fuses in the TV. Along with the immediately noticable glass ones, there are lots of "pico fuses" that look like resistors. There are a number of these deep in the forest of heat sinks on the power supply board, and also some on the high-voltage board (called SUB in the schematics). You can check them with an ohmmeter.
Before checking fuses, another good test is to check the voltages on the pink cables that connect the POWER board to the SUB board. Disconnect the cables so you can get at the pins on the POWER board and so the high-voltage circuits on the SUB board are off. Some of the POWER voltages are dangerous, so be very careful. Also, some have their own grounds which are different from the common ground -- see the schematics. It's very easy to accidentally short adjacent pins while probing and get sparks, so be careful. If you find that a voltage is missing, check its fuses.
Since you heard a pop, it's worth scanning the boards looking for traces of "magic smoke" that escape components when they pop.
What parts aee you looking for? most of the component parts are the same for several models.
as Betajet stated there are a forest of other fuses on the board. and as Larry stated you have to realize every part has just one Puff of smoke in each of them. If you can find it the best part cleaner to use is some for of head cleaner that is available at MCM electronics sister of Newark. it is freon based and leaves no residue. Be Careful which one you get as some contain a lubricant. and that will short out more parts. If it has not been mentioned you must use pure isopropyl alcohol otherwise it will leave traces. and the pop you heard could be also a blown trace. You did mention that there jumpers on the sub board. They would be evident with blackend spots on the board. just remember all locations of your cables as mentioned before. I could not find in the manual where the oil fill location is located. Any thoughts anyone else?
I have read the entire forum, downloaded the manual for my tv and it seems that I also have to replace my board. But just to be sure before I make any moves I wanted to throw in my info and make sure i am doing the correct things. I have posted some pictures of what my television looks like as of now. This same thing happened about a month ago but corrected itself after having it powered off for an hour or so. This time I had it unplugged for a few hours and turned off over night, but no change has occurred. Based on the picture, the info on my television and the parts and or service needed, which route do I take? Do I order the parts to repair the IC chips and fuses, replace the power supply sub board, or just replace the converter board? Also, samsung has the part number for my model number television as AA95-01846B, where as partstore.com has it listed stating that the AA95-01846D part is compatible with the pcl models as well. So I guess my question is, If I need to order a board, do I need the
AA95-01846D - suggested board on this site
AA95-01846B - suggested board from samsung parts
BP94-00155A - PCB assemply
or do I need to find some other form of conversion board?
My TV Info is: Samsung model number PCL5415R with Service number X/XAA September 2001
I tried to show pictures that have the curved red line alone with dark backdrop and the haziness and double vision of a colored screen.
Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Take out the convergence board, send it to ptscorp.com go to the website and contact them and see how much it will be to overhaul your convergence board, that way you have the right board for your set. when you take out the board there will be a number on the board.
Larry is right and just for kicks and giggles check out the price for a replacement board for comparison. You need to keep in mind the turn around time for the repair and if they will warranty the repair. These are things you will need to consider. A replacement board will probably have a 30 to 90 day warranty. Also consider the shipping cost to and from your home. I had excellent luck with the vendor I purchased my board from and eBay. This will work best once you determine the board you are looking at matches. I had my new board in less than a week and it works very well. Back in the day I would have loved to repair the board myself. But I have to be pragmatic and a board swap is the easiest.
Rescue25
as long as you get the exact number for the board, that is why I suggest taking out the board first and looking at the number. Man I lost count on how many times I ordered parts from a service manual and found them to be the wrong parts!!
I have been given an hcl4715, and will be getting the convergence board to replace what's in it now, but we're having a problem. The remote control. If I have batteries in it, the controls on the front of the tv don't work, the timer light blinks constantly, and the light on the remote to show that we're using tv, cable, vcr, whatever will be red on tv, but green on cable, but refuses to work. So is the remote set to run differently than I am trying to use it? We're on cable, and I'm not sure what the original owner (my brother) was using, but it was probably satellite, but I don't see why that would be a problem. I can say that when I first turned it on, it was on IFC whatever that is. I finally figured out that the remote was causing problems, and removed the batteries, so I was able to get the tv to show channels. But I want the remote to work, especially if I have to use the joy stick to do anything. I have not been able to find anything googling for problems with the remote. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? We are using new batteries, btw.
You know, I think I had a problem like this many years ago with my remote.
My just-a-guess is that one (or more) of the remote control's buttons is stuck on. This causes the timer LED on the TV to blink continuously, and should also cause the TV LED on the remote to blink continuously as well, assuming the remote is in TV mode. As a first step, take the remote to another room and try pressing all the buttons a few times to unstick whichever one is stuck. Don't forget the bunch of buttons under the secret panel at the top of the remote.
If that doesn't work, it may be that one of the switches is shorted inside the remote, perhaps due to a spilled drink. If you're technically minded, you could try taking the remote apart (main screw is under the batteries) and cleaning the switch surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to dump the key pads all over the place, and be sure to have the owner's manual handy in case you do. It's available at Samsung web site if your brother lost it. Be careful of static discharge: touch the negative battery terminal of the remote to discharge yourself before touching anything else on the remote's circuit board.
Remote control switches are really cheaply made, so the return mechanism can flake out with lots of use. You may just have to get a new remote.
Hope this helps.
Good sound advice. I'll do that. I already found a replacement for it, just in case, for about 28 bucks. Thank you! We've got a 50 inch Vizio in the front room, but my brother was going to toss this one and figured I might want to tinker with it. It ought to make a decent tv for the Wii.
I ordered a new convergence board for my hcl4715 and installed it as per all the information posted. It fixed the convergence problem, except the absence of red on the screen. Does this sound like a loose connection on the new board or something else? Red was working fine before the replacement.
Thank you for any help.
Following Larry's advice earlier in the thread, I'd suspect a loose cable. With power off, double-check each cable (i.e., gently wiggle each connector) that you touched when you replaced the board. Make sure there are no extra cables not plugged into anything. Also check the other end of the cables, since they may have been slightly loose when you got started and your board replacement may have made them more loose. Be sure to check the cables going to the CRTs.
If this doesn't work, another possibility is that you bent a pin when plugging in a connector, for example the one that brings in low voltage red from the main board.
Hope this helps.
Thank you Betajet. I checked each cable and their opposite ends as well as the pins and everything was fine. Any other suggestions? Could the new board be defective?
Thank you.
The board could be defective. I'm a computer engineer, not a TV expert so you should see if others on the site have advice.
My understanding from the schematics is that the high-voltage board (called SUB in the service manual) controls the horizontal and vertical movement of each CRT's electron beam by amplifying the low-voltage signals from the main board using high-voltage op-amps (those big ICs with the big heat sinks). If red's op-amp is defective or a resistor in the feedback path is broken, the red beam could be stuck at a minimum or maximum horizontal or vertical position so you can't see it on the screen. That's just one possible failure mode.
Install the old board back in and see what happens, if you still have no red then you know you messed up somewhere
Install the old board back in and see what happens, if you still have no red then you know you messed up somewhere
Larry is right swap it back and then see what happens. I thought I had a simular problem but I later found that I missed one of the cables leading to the crt's. Some times they get caught under the board when they are installed. does the red tube light up in any way? Take the front screen off if you need to. It slides off from the side you will need to dissassemble the front frame. As mentioned before the gun can be stuck to one end of the screen if it is not sweeping.
First, thank you for all of your help. Before I took the new board out I looked at the red tube, it was as though there was a hint of light showing, but not much. So I then put the old board back in and the red tube was fully lit and quite obvious on the screen with the convergence out.
I would appreciate any more advice as what might be the problem and how to proceed. Thank you in advance.
I went ahead and installed the new board again and it worked this time. Thank you for all your help.
If the convergence is OK, take out the convergence board and carefully re solder the IC's on the old board, and return the new board if you can!
Lots of good info here.
I replaced the IC that was for the blue/green and the TV works much better. The grids are lined up perfectly in the service mode. However, I'm getting a "rainbow" effect now. There are vertical lines where the color is messed up and redish. It doesn't look anything like the other pictures here where there are 3 seperate pictures that just arn't lined up, it's just a coloring issue. It's more noticable when the screen is freally dark or really light. Is there something else that needs adjusted or could the other IC need replaced as well? A friend of mine looked at it and mentioned de-gausing but I can't find anything in the service manual about it.
Thanks
No a projection Tv does not use or need the Deguassing. Post a picture of what it looks like please.
kinda off topic I am looking for a good forum for hp pavillion 9000 series notebooks. got one for free but it has it's troubles. I have been working on electronics since '82 but I try not to mess with notebooks too much. Any suggestions??
Rescue25
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