You should be able to make the convergence jig from tracing paper and do the convergence adjustment yourself. Regarding brightness, I suggest doing what you can from the service menus and make your TV room as dark as possible. As I said, I don't know if the 29KV adjustment is the problem. Perhaps others on the list may chime in with some "bright" ideas.
If you feel like testing your soldering skills, you could try replacing the STK*** parts on your old SUB board (the one you replaced). It should have the 29KV settings made correctly (and melted into place). Larry in a previous comment says he prefers to repair SUB boards rather than replacing them. If you do this, also check the feedback resistors under the STK*** parts.
Larry also has some general TV repair articles elsewhere on this site. Good reading!
alrighty thanks for your help. And i liked your bright ideas joke lol. So if anyone else can help me out it would be greatly appreciated. And one more question for you. When in service mode and setting the geometry and what not, which set of numbers should i be going off of becasue there is 4 different sizes none that are the size i have which is 47". so should i use the initial dat numbers or one of the bigger sizes?
I've never been in the service menus myself, but you're right, the service manual doesn't include 47". My guess would be that the smallest listed (54") is probably safe. In all cases, write down the current value before adjusting anything so you have a way to get back.
k cool ill give that a try. And if anyone has had experience with this model fixing the convergence and had success with all the things that need to be done after the new board is in place, please please please your wisdom would be appreciated.
hello all - I posted this about a year ago, but wasn't sure if anyone posted directly to me or not, so I will try again: I have a service manual):
Hello all-
First time poster here. I have the sorry Samsung set mentioned in these posts. Mine lasted about 16 months, then died.
When you plug it in, The red power light comes on, but no picture. There is a steady high pitched beeping, and a clicking sound. This keeps happening until I unplug it.
Can someone tell me where I need to start with this? Specific directions would be appreciated.
I had similar symptoms within the last year (see above posts), but I have no idea if your problem is caused by the same thing. (I'm a computer engineer, not a TV expert.) In my case, all my symptoms were caused by CRT coolant oil which had leaked onto circuit boards. One drop actually hit the CPU board (called MICOM in the schematics) and created a weak short between some signals which made the CPU think erroneously that the 29KV high voltage was too high. Another drop of oil on the MAIN board caused random red lines and bars to appear on the screen, because some digital signals were weakly shorted to the red analog signal.
The oil is practically invisible, but if you hit it from the correct angle with a good light it reflects differently from the circuit boards. You can also feel it with your finger-tip -- with the set unplugged, of course. I cleaned up the oil with isopropyl alcohol wipes, though there is probably a better chemical to use.
So I'd recommend unplugging the set and checking over the MAIN board (the low-voltage digital board) for oil. The MICOM board is in a metal box and can be unplugged by carefully rocking the board from side to side while pulling up. This is difficult since it's in a metal box. Use anti-static protection, e.g., touch ground before touching any circuit boards or preferably use a proper anti-static strap.
Hope this helps. If it doesn't, next step is checking that the POWER board is generating all the proper voltages.
I have a PCL545R, loooks like the standard convergence problems. I changed the IC's and checked the resistors and fuses, everything tested good. I had a problem with the red before but now it is the blue. The blue lines swoop at one end, I'm able to line everything up in service mode and save it. The manual and automatic perfect focus both work after I line everything up. Here is my problem, if I shut the set off for more than five minutes everything goes out of whack again. I can see that when I do the alignment that the lines are still a little wavy in the blue, but everything else is good. I have now pulled the board again and rechecked the solder, resistors and pico fuses, everything is good, please help, is it possible that I bought a faulty IC.
My understanding of the Samsung service manual is that programmable settings are stored in EEPROMs so that they retain their values when the TV is turned off. The MICOM (CPU) board has an 8-pin 24C16 EEPROM for this purpose. I think this saves all the user settings such as which channels to switch between and which is your favorite channel.
I don't know where the convergence settings are stored on your TV. The schematics seem to show two different digital convergence modules: 10-15 CONVERGENCE and 10-16/17 CONVERGENCE (SDC-11). The SDC-11 version has its own 24C16 EEPROM. I can't tell if the 10-15 CONVERGENCE board has its own EEPROM since I can't zoom into the schematics and read the fine print. I suspect you have the SDC-11 convergence board since it is the only one that mentions "PERFECT FOCUS" on the schematic.
So one possibility (and it's only a guess as I am not a TV expert) is that you have an SDC-11 convergence board and its 24C16 EEPROM (IC05) is flaky and loses its data when you turn the power off. The SDC-11 is the DIGITAL convergence board which plugs into the MAIN board and (I think) is housed in a vertical metal box. It's not the high-voltage board (called SUB in the schematics) which has the STK*** parts you replaced.
If it's like the MICOM board, the digital convergence board can be unplugged by carefully rocking the board from side to side while pulling up. This is difficult since it's in a metal box. Use anti-static protection, e.g., touch ground before touching any circuit boards or preferably use a proper anti-static strap.
If it were my set and the digital convergence module is cheap, I'd try replacing the module. If it's an expensive module and I felt adventurous, I'd try replacing the 24C16 EEPROM.
[As always, these are all guesses and the problem could easily be something else, like my own favorite bugaboo CRT oil which causes weak shorts between signals as described in my posts above.]
Ok I have found out that it is cheaper to chang out the convergence board. I got one on ebay for 89.00. as for the focus you will need to go the the function menu and then go to the convergenceportion and then focus in all corners of the colors of the set.
though my problem is after changing to convergence board last year. this just happened all of the inputs have shifted to the right about 3 inches. the picture is fine other than that. it is very odd. I have not found out very much about this on a few other sites but is there somthing crapping out on this new convergence board ????
Hello,
I have 2 different problems but hoping somebody can help.
1. I just upgraded to HD but my tv (HCL4715) will not display the HD channels, they are all fuzzy and have squiggly lines. We tried a different cable box and it does the same thing so I'm pretty sure it is something with the tv.
2. My component 2 does not work, the picture is all distorted. I tried both the new cable box and my DVD player which has been hooked up to component 1 and has always worked.
Hello,
I too have the HCL4715 with the convergence problems that so many people seem to be having with this tv. I've replaced the SUB board and double checked all the connections. When I turn the TV on, I get sound, but no picture where the picture was working before (only with the convergence problem). Any ideas as to what I can do or check?
Seems as though you might have recieved a defective sub board?I would contact the place of purchace abd see if you can exchange the board for another one, OR haxe you checked the plus and the minus convergence power supply voltage yet?there are two small fuses or circuit protectors that protect the plus and miud 30 volt comvrgrnce supply voltange that are most likely open (bad)
Larry Dillon said: Seems as though you might have recieved a defective sub board?I would contact the place of purchace abd see if you can exchange the board for another one, OR haxe you checked the plus and the minus convergence power supply voltage yet?there are two small fuses or circuit protectors that protect the plus and miud 30 volt comvrgrnce supply voltange that are most likely open (bad)
Thanks for the quick reply Larry. Because it was a DIY purchase I was given a "no return/no refund" invoice and no warranty from the place of purchase. I will try to see if they will do an exchange for me though, after I test the convergence circuts like you suggest. It's been so long that I've used a MM I forgot where it is. I'm off to the store to buy a new one. Thanks again for the advice. I hope that's what it is. I guess I can find the proper circuts to test in the schematics right?
Triple check all connectors, especially the ones that have the same size plugs and could go more that 1 place, and look for any wires that slipped under the chassis at the back.
Thanks Larry and Alnp,
I kind of feel stupid now that I look at it. I went and bought a MM to check the voltages like you suggested Larry, and as soon as I opened up the back again I noticed one wire connection had slipped under the back of the board as Alnp suggested I look for. I was positive I got them all. It was the small pink ribbon cable at the back. Reconnected this and turned the set on. The picture was there... Awesome. No testing. I had to do the convergence alignment, but only by eye as I haven't made a jig to really finetune it. That will be my next project, but at least I have the set back up and running and it's quite watchable. You guys are great. Thanks for the help, suggestions and very quick responses. Oh and now I have a brand new MM as well.
Hi Guys, is there a way to set the whole thing back to factory and then adjust from there? I am afraid things are out of whack from weird convergence adjustments after replacing the board. I have the service manual now, but didn't see specifically what I was asking. It is after midnight here so I may just have missed it.
No adjustments were made before the board swap, the "screwing up" was done afterwards I'm afraid. No data points were altered, only convergence adjustments that were horribly misunderstood... I will try to read the manual again when it isn't after midnight and see if it can be undone. Thanks... J
Always write down any values or settings before changing them! This way if there is a problem like you have now, you can go back and reset everything like they were.
"Hello,
I have 2 different problems but hoping somebody can help.
1. I just upgraded to HD but my tv (HCL4715) will not display the HD channels, they are all fuzzy and have squiggly lines. We tried a different cable box and it does the same thing so I'm pretty sure it is something with the tv.
2. My component 2 does not work, the picture is all distorted. I tried both the new cable box and my DVD player which has been hooked up to component 1 and has always worked."
could still be the convergence IC"s go to partstore.com and enter the model mumber and see if the complete board with new IC'S AND Everything is available AS YOU DID NOT SPECIFY THE MODEL? for this set!!
Larry what do you think about my problem with the shifting of the whole picture to the right?? I have not seen a reply for this one yet. also can anyone tell me if the servic e manual is available on pdf. and whether or not they have information an the service codes please this shifted screen is getting old. If this were a computer monintor it would be a no brainer can somone get back to me.
Hi all - I have some free time and decided to work on this set again. I got a message from another user a few months back who was having the same probs as me. He had unplugged the convergence module, and he said his set came on. So I tried it - bingo! I have a picture! Although the convergence is messed up on it. The convergence board (part # AA41-06717C) has been doctored up - it has one wire on the IC side that is soldered in and three on the other side that are all ending on one end at the board connector - looks like EF03 or EF04 (printed on the circuit board).
V-BlK------EF03 or EF04
H-BLK------same
D-Focus----same
There are small resistors between each of the above.
rescue25` said: Larry what do you think about my problem with the shifting of the whole picture to the right?? I have not seen a reply for this one yet. also can anyone tell me if the servic e manual is available on pdf. and whether or not they have information an the service codes please this shifted screen is getting old. If this were a computer monintor it would be a no brainer can somone get back to me. Sincerely, rescue25
HEY THANKS A LOT MAN FOR THE LINK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will go through it all. btw YOU THE MAN. Have you seen any thing like it before??? I have the attention span of a knat some times and I tried to do a search for a thread for the manual but came up empty. and I just could not wade through all of the pages of replys to find it. you know the knat thing. ANYWAY THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well after resetting the convergence for all three colors and resizing throught the geometric settings picture is better than ever thanks man ur a life saver.
Adam,
You should be able to make the convergence jig from tracing paper and do the convergence adjustment yourself. Regarding brightness, I suggest doing what you can from the service menus and make your TV room as dark as possible. As I said, I don't know if the 29KV adjustment is the problem. Perhaps others on the list may chime in with some "bright" ideas.
If you feel like testing your soldering skills, you could try replacing the STK*** parts on your old SUB board (the one you replaced). It should have the 29KV settings made correctly (and melted into place). Larry in a previous comment says he prefers to repair SUB boards rather than replacing them. If you do this, also check the feedback resistors under the STK*** parts.
Larry also has some general TV repair articles elsewhere on this site. Good reading!
alrighty thanks for your help. And i liked your bright ideas joke lol. So if anyone else can help me out it would be greatly appreciated. And one more question for you. When in service mode and setting the geometry and what not, which set of numbers should i be going off of becasue there is 4 different sizes none that are the size i have which is 47". so should i use the initial dat numbers or one of the bigger sizes?
Adam,
I've never been in the service menus myself, but you're right, the service manual doesn't include 47". My guess would be that the smallest listed (54") is probably safe. In all cases, write down the current value before adjusting anything so you have a way to get back.
k cool ill give that a try. And if anyone has had experience with this model fixing the convergence and had success with all the things that need to be done after the new board is in place, please please please your wisdom would be appreciated.
I agree it might be easier
"replacing the STK*** parts on your old SUB board (the one you
replaced)."
You then just touch up convergence in the user menu.
Contaminated cooling fluid in the blue or green crt can make the picture dim,
focus block adjustments (read first), inputs are other ideas.
hello all - I posted this about a year ago, but wasn't sure if anyone posted directly to me or not, so I will try again: I have a service manual):
Hello all-
First time poster here. I have the sorry Samsung set mentioned in these posts. Mine lasted about 16 months, then died.
When you plug it in, The red power light comes on, but no picture. There is a steady high pitched beeping, and a clicking sound. This keeps happening until I unplug it.
Can someone tell me where I need to start with this? Specific directions would be appreciated.
Thank you.
jakkwb,
I had similar symptoms within the last year (see above posts), but I have no idea if your problem is caused by the same thing. (I'm a computer engineer, not a TV expert.) In my case, all my symptoms were caused by CRT coolant oil which had leaked onto circuit boards. One drop actually hit the CPU board (called MICOM in the schematics) and created a weak short between some signals which made the CPU think erroneously that the 29KV high voltage was too high. Another drop of oil on the MAIN board caused random red lines and bars to appear on the screen, because some digital signals were weakly shorted to the red analog signal.
The oil is practically invisible, but if you hit it from the correct angle with a good light it reflects differently from the circuit boards. You can also feel it with your finger-tip -- with the set unplugged, of course. I cleaned up the oil with isopropyl alcohol wipes, though there is probably a better chemical to use.
So I'd recommend unplugging the set and checking over the MAIN board (the low-voltage digital board) for oil. The MICOM board is in a metal box and can be unplugged by carefully rocking the board from side to side while pulling up. This is difficult since it's in a metal box. Use anti-static protection, e.g., touch ground before touching any circuit boards or preferably use a proper anti-static strap.
Hope this helps. If it doesn't, next step is checking that the POWER board is generating all the proper voltages.
I have a PCL545R, loooks like the standard convergence problems. I changed the IC's and checked the resistors and fuses, everything tested good. I had a problem with the red before but now it is the blue. The blue lines swoop at one end, I'm able to line everything up in service mode and save it. The manual and automatic perfect focus both work after I line everything up. Here is my problem, if I shut the set off for more than five minutes everything goes out of whack again. I can see that when I do the alignment that the lines are still a little wavy in the blue, but everything else is good. I have now pulled the board again and rechecked the solder, resistors and pico fuses, everything is good, please help, is it possible that I bought a faulty IC.
Thanks,
John
John,
My understanding of the Samsung service manual is that programmable settings are stored in EEPROMs so that they retain their values when the TV is turned off. The MICOM (CPU) board has an 8-pin 24C16 EEPROM for this purpose. I think this saves all the user settings such as which channels to switch between and which is your favorite channel.
I don't know where the convergence settings are stored on your TV. The schematics seem to show two different digital convergence modules: 10-15 CONVERGENCE and 10-16/17 CONVERGENCE (SDC-11). The SDC-11 version has its own 24C16 EEPROM. I can't tell if the 10-15 CONVERGENCE board has its own EEPROM since I can't zoom into the schematics and read the fine print. I suspect you have the SDC-11 convergence board since it is the only one that mentions "PERFECT FOCUS" on the schematic.
So one possibility (and it's only a guess as I am not a TV expert) is that you have an SDC-11 convergence board and its 24C16 EEPROM (IC05) is flaky and loses its data when you turn the power off. The SDC-11 is the DIGITAL convergence board which plugs into the MAIN board and (I think) is housed in a vertical metal box. It's not the high-voltage board (called SUB in the schematics) which has the STK*** parts you replaced.
If it's like the MICOM board, the digital convergence board can be unplugged by carefully rocking the board from side to side while pulling up. This is difficult since it's in a metal box. Use anti-static protection, e.g., touch ground before touching any circuit boards or preferably use a proper anti-static strap.
If it were my set and the digital convergence module is cheap, I'd try replacing the module. If it's an expensive module and I felt adventurous, I'd try replacing the 24C16 EEPROM.
[As always, these are all guesses and the problem could easily be something else, like my own favorite bugaboo CRT oil which causes weak shorts between signals as described in my posts above.]
Ok I have found out that it is cheaper to chang out the convergence board. I got one on ebay for 89.00. as for the focus you will need to go the the function menu and then go to the convergenceportion and then focus in all corners of the colors of the set.
though my problem is after changing to convergence board last year. this just happened all of the inputs have shifted to the right about 3 inches. the picture is fine other than that. it is very odd. I have not found out very much about this on a few other sites but is there somthing crapping out on this new convergence board ????
Hello,
I have 2 different problems but hoping somebody can help.
1. I just upgraded to HD but my tv (HCL4715) will not display the HD channels, they are all fuzzy and have squiggly lines. We tried a different cable box and it does the same thing so I'm pretty sure it is something with the tv.
2. My component 2 does not work, the picture is all distorted. I tried both the new cable box and my DVD player which has been hooked up to component 1 and has always worked.
Can anybody help?
Thank You!
Hello,
I too have the HCL4715 with the convergence problems that so many people seem to be having with this tv. I've replaced the SUB board and double checked all the connections. When I turn the TV on, I get sound, but no picture where the picture was working before (only with the convergence problem). Any ideas as to what I can do or check?
Thanks in advance.
Martin...
Seems as though you might have recieved a defective sub board?I would contact the place of purchace abd see if you can exchange the board for another one, OR haxe you checked the plus and the minus convergence power supply voltage yet?there are two small fuses or circuit protectors that protect the plus and miud 30 volt comvrgrnce supply voltange that are most likely open (bad)
Thanks for the quick reply Larry. Because it was a DIY purchase I was given a "no return/no refund" invoice and no warranty from the place of purchase. I will try to see if they will do an exchange for me though, after I test the convergence circuts like you suggest. It's been so long that I've used a MM I forgot where it is. I'm off to the store to buy a new one. Thanks again for the advice. I hope that's what it is. I guess I can find the proper circuts to test in the schematics right?
Martin...
Triple check all connectors, especially the ones that have the same size plugs and could go more that 1 place, and look for any wires that slipped under the chassis at the back.
Thanks Larry and Alnp,
I kind of feel stupid now that I look at it. I went and bought a MM to check the voltages like you suggested Larry, and as soon as I opened up the back again I noticed one wire connection had slipped under the back of the board as Alnp suggested I look for. I was positive I got them all. It was the small pink ribbon cable at the back. Reconnected this and turned the set on. The picture was there... Awesome. No testing. I had to do the convergence alignment, but only by eye as I haven't made a jig to really finetune it. That will be my next project, but at least I have the set back up and running and it's quite watchable. You guys are great. Thanks for the help, suggestions and very quick responses. Oh and now I have a brand new MM as well.
Hi Guys, is there a way to set the whole thing back to factory and then adjust from there? I am afraid things are out of whack from weird convergence adjustments after replacing the board. I have the service manual now, but didn't see specifically what I was asking. It is after midnight here so I may just have missed it.
Thanks, Jason
If you tried to do convergence adjustments before you repaired the circuit then you will need to start from scratch I'm afraid man
No adjustments were made before the board swap, the "screwing up" was done afterwards I'm afraid. No data points were altered, only convergence adjustments that were horribly misunderstood... I will try to read the manual again when it isn't after midnight and see if it can be undone. Thanks... J
Always write down any values or settings before changing them! This way if there is a problem like you have now, you can go back and reset everything like they were.
"Hello,
I have 2 different problems but hoping somebody can help.
1. I just upgraded to HD but my tv (HCL4715) will not display the HD channels, they are all fuzzy and have squiggly lines. We tried a different cable box and it does the same thing so I'm pretty sure it is something with the tv.
2. My component 2 does not work, the picture is all distorted. I tried both the new cable box and my DVD player which has been hooked up to component 1 and has always worked."
Can anybody help????
Larry what do you think about my problem with the shifting of the whole picture to the right?? I have not seen a reply for this one yet.
Sincerely,
rescue25
could still be the convergence IC"s go to partstore.com and enter the model mumber and see if the complete board with new IC'S AND Everything is available AS YOU DID NOT SPECIFY THE MODEL? for this set!!
Larry what do you think about my problem with the shifting of the whole picture to the right?? I have not seen a reply for this one yet. also can anyone tell me if the servic e manual is available on pdf. and whether or not they have information an the service codes please this shifted screen is getting old. If this were a computer monintor it would be a no brainer can somone get back to me.
Sincerely,
rescue25
Hi all - I have some free time and decided to work on this set again. I got a message from another user a few months back who was having the same probs as me. He had unplugged the convergence module, and he said his set came on. So I tried it - bingo! I have a picture! Although the convergence is messed up on it. The convergence board (part # AA41-06717C) has been doctored up - it has one wire on the IC side that is soldered in and three on the other side that are all ending on one end at the board connector - looks like EF03 or EF04 (printed on the circuit board).
V-BlK------EF03 or EF04
H-BLK------same
D-Focus----same
There are small resistors between each of the above.
What do I do next?
Very anxious to get this going again!
Rescue25:
The service manual is at this site (Resources section) at: http://www.techlore.com/download/21289/Samsung-PCL-HCL-ST-Models/
The manual does have service codes and schematics, along with limited troubleshooting charts.
it should be as I remember posting it there a few months ago.
http://www.techlore.com/download/21289/Samsung-PCL-HCL-ST-Models/
HEY THANKS A LOT MAN FOR THE LINK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will go through it all. btw YOU THE MAN. Have you seen any thing like it before??? I have the attention span of a knat some times and I tried to do a search for a thread for the manual but came up empty. and I just could not wade through all of the pages of replys to find it. you know the knat thing. ANYWAY THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
RESCUE25
Well after resetting the convergence for all three colors and resizing throught the geometric settings picture is better than ever thanks man ur a life saver.
rescue25
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